|
Port Antonio
Port Antonio
first came to the attention of the travel world thanks to resident Errol
Flynn. The rambunctious actor had a home on Navy Island, just off the
coast of Port Antonio, and entertained many celebrities in his verdant
hideaway.
In those days, the hot spot in town was the Titchfield Hotel. The guest
list was star-studded: Rudyard Kipling, Randolph Hearst, J.P. Morgan Jr.,
and others.
In the 1950s Errol Flynn started what has become one of Jamaica’s top
tourist activities – rafting. The notorious lover began floating women
down the expansive river, naming one section that winds between two boulders
Lovers Lane. Before long, tourists were floating down the river two by
two on rafts poled by expert raftsmen. The activity has spread to several
other rivers in Jamaica, but the Rio Grande remains the largest operation
of its kind.
Errol Flynn wasn’t the only celebrity to grace Port Antonio. Poet Ella
Willa Wilcox called this “the most exquisite spot on earth.” Robin Moore
came to the area to pen The French Connection.
An historic house here stands as a tribute to lost love. The ruins of
Folly, built by a wealthy American for a sweetheart who would not come
to Port Antonio, can still be seen near the main road. Why is this home
now in ruins? Seawater instead of freshwater was used in making the cement
and the castle crumbled.
In more recent years, many other celebrities have frequented this site
and Port Antonio has found its way into the movies.
One star-studded site is the Blue Lagoon (remember the Brooke Shields
movie?). The beautiful swimming hole that’s been termed bottomless because
of its uncanny blue hue is actually about 180 feet deep. Take a walk through
the restaurant to see the many celebrities who have visited, their photos
framed on the walls. Nearby, Boston Beach is the place to go on the island
for jerk, slow-cooked in pits.
Port Antionio: Where to Stay
PRICE CHART
Note that prices, unless otherwise noted, are in US dollars.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Prices are per room, based on double occupancy. In the case of all-inclusive
properties, prices are per person.
$ = up to $50 per day
$$ = $51 to $100 per day
$$$ = $101 to $175 per day
$$$$ = over $175 per day
Villas, Resorts & Hotels
BLUE LAGOON VILLAS
Fairy Hill
876-993-8491, fax 876-993-8492; reservations 800-822-3274
www.portantonio.com-blmain.htm
($$$$)
This is one of the most photographed accommodations in eastern Jamaica.
One- to four-bedroom villas are perched right on the water’s edge, offering
exquisite luxury and privacy. Each includes indoor and outdoor dining,
a full kitchen and sun decks. They come with daily housekeeping and meals
are served by the resident maid-chef and butler. The villas are within
swimming distance of the Blue Lagoon and Pelou Island, once owned by Princess
Nina Aga Khan.
CRYSTAL SPRINGS RESORT
Buff Bay (1 hour from Port Antonio)
876-996-1400
($)
This eco-park offers camping as well as rustic cottages. There are acres
of forest, fruit trees and a good collection of orchids. A good spot for
birding.
DEMONTEVIN LODGE
21 Fort George Street, Titchfield Hill
876-993-2604
($)
This classic inn has 13 guest rooms. Like a quaint Victorian inn, the
hotel has a homey feel and is best for bargain travelers. The home was
once a private house, and is decorated with attractive ironwork.
DRAGON BAY BEACH RESORT
Point Ann
876-993-8751, fax 876-993-8971; reservations 800-633-3284
($$$)
These 30 villas are perched on a private lagoon. Choose from one, two
or three bedrooms, each surrounded by beautiful gardens and all the comforts
of home. The hotel’s grounds are an attraction in themselves; you very
well might spot hummingbirds and butterflies on your strolls.
INTERESTING FACT: If you recognize these 55 acres, it’s with good reason:
they have been the backdrop for movies including Cocktail, Lord of the
Flies and Club Paradise. Don’t miss the “Cruise Bar” – the beach bar where
Tom Cruise’s character mixed drinks (and won hearts) in Cocktail.
FERN HILL CLUB
Drapers
876-993-7374, fax 876-993-7373
($$)
This 30-room hillside inn perched at the foothills of the Blue Mountains
has air conditioning, four pools, satellite TV, tennis and many other
free amenities, including windsurfing, Sunfish sailing and snorkeling.
There’s even a Spa Suite with in-room facilities.
GOBLIN HILL VILLAS AT SAN SAN
Drapers
876-925-8108, fax 876-925-6248; reservations 800-472-1148
($$$$)
Goblin Hill overlooks San San Bay, Port Antonio’s beautiful harbor, and
offers its guests peace and quiet. The 28 villas include the services
of a housekeeper-cook, who will cook and serve your favorite dishes. The
villas are a short walk away from the water.
HOTEL MOCKING BIRD HILL
Point Ann
876-993-7267, fax 876-993-7133
www.hotelmockingbirdhill.com
($$-$$$)
This 10-room hotel is often cited for its eco-friendly policies. It uses
solar energy and locally produced furniture and the grounds feature local
plantings. Even the restaurant, the excellent Mille Fleurs, uses local
produce. This property is very popular with ecotourists and offers many
tours that explore the natural attractions of the Port Antonio area.
JAMAICA CREST RESORT
Fairy Hill
876-993-8400, fax 876-933-8432
($$-$$$)
This 14-apartment complex has air-conditioned accommodations, two restaurants,
tennis, pool, a disco, gift shop and even a massage and beauty salon.
There are one- and two-bedroom villas as well as studio units, each with
kitchenette, TV, phone and ceiling fans.
JAMAICA PALACE
Drapers
876-993-7720, reservations 800-423-4095
($$)
Jamaica Palace is probably the most unusual property in Port Antonio,
built like a 17th-century Italian palace. The black and white floor tiles
that surround the exterior echo the black lacquered furniture inside.
All rooms are furnished with Middle Eastern decor (Persian rugs and unusual
antiques fill the property). The hotel’s pool is built in the shape of
Jamaica.
TRIDENT VILLAS AND HOTEL
Point Ann
876-993-2602, reservations 800-428-4734
www.tridentvillas.com
($$$$) (all-inclusive optional)
This longtime favorite of the well-heeled crowd is one of Port Antonio’s
top resorts. The atmosphere is super-quiet (when we had lunch here we
were the only diners, and were accompanied by a few elegant peacocks that
strolled through the open-air restaurant).
AUTHORS’ TIP: Look around for familiar celebrity faces. This resort has
long drawn stars, and recently was used as a setting for the movie Shattered
Image.
Guest rooms are elegant and private; dining here is white-gloved and equally
cultivated. There is a small beach area, but most of the property is bordered
by rugged rocks which are pounded by the sea night and day – truly a stunning
sight. It is well worth coming out just for a look around the property
and a meal.
Port Antionio: Where to Eat
PRICE CHART
Note that prices, unless otherwise noted, are in US dollars.
RESTAURANT
Restaurant prices indicate the price of a meal, drink and gratuity for
one person.
$ = up to $15 per person
$$ = $15 to $30 per person
$$$ = $30 to $45 per person
$$$$ = over $45 per person
.
Continental Cuisine
MILLE FLEURS
Hotel Mocking Bird Hill
876-993-7267 or 993-7134
($$$-$$$$)
This restaurant overlooking Port Antonio and the Caribbean Sea is a romantic
favorite. Sit on the terrace surrounded by tropical vegetation and enjoy
the sunset (manager Shireen Aga recommends that guests arrive by 6 pm
to enjoy cocktails and a sunset view). The restaurant offers an à
la carte menu that changes daily. Lunch is served from noon to 2 pm; dinner
is served starting at 7 pm, with the last order taken at 9:30.
Some of the interesting entrées served here include chicken in
June plum sauce; grilled fish with spicy mango-shrimp sauce; and spiced
fish with tamarind and coconut sauce.
TRIDENT VILLAS AND HOTEL
Point Ann
876-993-2602
($$$$)
This elegant eatery is the fanciest in Port Antonio. Dine by candlelight
on either continental or Jamaican fare. Open daily for dinner. Most evenings,
dinner consist of six courses and is served by white-gloved waitstaff.
Ice Cream
DEVON HOUSE’S I SCREAM
West Street
($)
The ever-popular Kingston ice cream parlor also has a location in tiny
Port Antonio (a clue to the popularity of this seaside getaway with Kingstonians).
Cool off with a scoop of one of the many tropical flavors.
Jamaican Restaurants
TRIDENT VILLAS AND HOTEL
Point Ann
876-993-2602
($$$$)
See listing above.
BLUE LAGOON
Fairy Hill
876-993-8491
($$)
This casual eatery sits alongside the lagoon’s edge and serves authentic
Jamaican dishes. Choose from jerk chicken or sausage, vegetarian pizza,
fresh lobster and more. Live entertainment keeps the place hopping on
weekends. Open daily for lunch and dinner.
LOW BRIDGE PLACE RESTAURANT & BAR
Drapers, 4 miles east of Port Antonio, near San San
876-993-7888
($)
Owned by a Jamaican couple, this relaxed eatery serves local treats such
as ackee and saltfish, escovitch fish, pumpkin rice, and rice and peas.
The bar offers plenty of local specialties too, from fresh fruit punch
to Red Stripe beer.
Port
Antionio: Transportation
Car Rentals
Most travelers rent cars before they arrive in Port Antonio, but there
are a couple of options in town. Once you have a rental car, you’ll find
the driving much easier than in the communities of Montego Bay or Ocho
Rios.
Finding your way around Port Antonio is fairly easy. The North Coast Road
becomes West Palm Avenue as it enters town along the waterfront, an area
that faces West Harbour. Divided by a small peninsula, West Harbour soon
gives way to East Harbour and West Palm Avenue becomes West Harbour Avenue
and, finally, Allen Avenue, tracing the waterfront through town.
The road continues east through the city past many of the area resorts,
starting with Trident and the nearby Trident Castle, built by an heiress
and today used by guests of Trident Resort. Farther south lies the Blue
Hole, one of Jamaica’s loveliest swimming spots and a great place to spend
a lazy afternoon. Continuing south is Boston Bay, home of some of the
best jerk chicken in Jamaica.
CAR RENTAL AGENCIES
Eastern Rent-A-Car
.....................876-993-3624, Harbour Street
Waves Enterprises
....................876-993-3206, Boundbrook Avenue
Taxis
You won’t find as many taxis here as in the main resort destinations,
but they are still the most popular mode of visitor transportation.
AUTHORS’ TIP: Travel in PPV-plated vehicles (red tags), which are licensed
taxi drivers. If you don’t find one, hotels are happy to call one.
Taxi rates are by car, not by passenger. Fares average about US $5-7 for
10 miles. If you accept a driver’s offer of his services as a tour guide,
be sure to agree on a price before the vehicle is put into gear.
Bus Service
Bus travel in and around Port Antonio is popular among locals but can
be crowded and slow. The minibuses are not air-conditioned. Buses will
stop anywhere along the route to pick up passengers. To catch one, stand
by the side of the road with your arm outstretched; pat down with your
hand when you see an oncoming bus. Bus fare is about US $1 for 30-40 miles.
Guided Tours
VALLEY HIKES
5 Smatt Road, PO Box 89
Port Antonio, Portland
876-993-3881, fax 876-993-4962
E-mail valleyhikes@cwj.com
This tour company offers a variety of guided hikes for travelers of all
levels of fitness. Along with bird watching, tours take visitors to historic
sites such as Mooretown, to working banana plantations, and to local waterfalls.
BLUE MOUNTAIN BICYCLE TOURS
Main Street, Ocho Rios
876-974-7075 or 974-7492, fax 876-974-0635
Port Antionio: Things to do and see
Day Trip
NAVY ISLAND
876-993-2667
Hours: Open daily
Admission charged
Spend a day on the island once owned by actor Errol Flynn. It’s just a
seven-minute boat ride from the mainland to this hideaway, which is home
to several small cottages, a bar and a watersports operator. The ferry
operates around the clock from West Street Harbor. Navy Island is a quiet
place for a picnic.
Historic Site
FIREFLY
Port Maria
Hours: 8:30-5:30
1-800-OUTPOST
The land on which Firefly sits was originally sold to Noel Coward by Chris
Blackwell’s mother. After the playwright’s death, the property was given
to the Jamaican government; today Chris Blackwell leases the historic
site and manages tours. The tour is well worth the drive to Port Maria,
especially for travelers interested in the early days of Jamaica’s tourism
industry, when it attracted a rich and famous clientele.
Hiking
VALLEY HIKES
5 Smatt Road, PO Box 89
Port Antonio, Portland
876-993-3881, fax 876-993-4962
E-mail: valleyhikes@cwj.com
Perfect for the adventure traveler who really wants to get out and see
more of Jamaica, Valley Hikes offers guided hikes into some of the most
interesting regions of Jamaica. Tours are operated by one of 18 trail
guides from the surrounding communities; all have been trained and certified
by the Jamaica Tourist Board.
Excursions include visits to the Valley communities to meet descendants
of Nanny of the Maroons, Jamaica’s only national heroine.
The goals of Valley Hikes are not only to introduce travelers to this
region but also to generate income for the area residents and to promote
and develop ecotourism in the Rio Grande Valley.
The company has developed many trails that offer a variety of experiences,
from soft-adventure to rugged. Many hikes take place under a forested
canopy that is home to many endemic bird species as well as the swallowtail
butterfly.
Valley Hikes also works to promote environmental conservation by organizing
special training for trail guides, sponsoring clean-up activities and
environmental awareness programs.
In the Lower Valley, travelers staying in Port Antonio should budget two
hours for return travel time to and from all hikes. The hikes include:
Darley Trail: This four-hour hike over medium grade begins at Berridale
and crosses the Rio Grande by raft. You then continue with an easy walk
to the Say River, following its course and passing three waterfalls.
Stanton Trail: This three- to four-hour hike of easy to medium grade offers
the choice of two loop trails. Trails begin at Stanton and both offer
a panoramic view of the Rio Grande.
Plantation Trails: These two- to four-hour hikes of moderate grade also
offer two options. The long hike starts at Premiers Bananas and takes
the Golden Vale route. On this hike, you meet at the end of a teak-lined
walk and travel through banana and coffee plantations. The shorter hike
is a loop trail that starts in Berridale and includes a tour of a local
farm and plantation.
Bird Watching Trails: Valley Hikes offers several hikes along different
trails of easy to medium difficulty; budget one to four hours for these
hikes. You can pick the difficulty level and length of hike you’d like
to take.
In the Middle Valley, budget three hours return travel time to Port Antonio
hotels for these hikes:
Mooretown Trails and Falls: This four-hour hike over moderate grade starts
in the community of Mooretown, home to descendants of the Maroons. Groups
meet the Colonel, the leader of the community, on arrival.
Nanny Falls: This two- to three-hour walk over easy terrain is a good
short hike in the Rio Grande Valley. It begins in Mooretown and continues
down a dirt road. Along the way, you can sample fruits, learn about the
herbal medicines and take a swim in Nanny Falls.
Cornwall Barracks and Dry River Falls: This three- to four-hour hike over
moderate grade starts at Cornwall Barracks. You’ll cross a swinging bridge
over the Rio Grande and continue for an hour to Dry River Falls. The return
hike takes in more of the Rio Grande Valley as well as Maroontown.
Nanny Town: This overnight trip includes two full days of hiking over
very difficult grade. It starts at Coopers Hill and follows a trail to
Nanny Town, where you’ll overnight at a campsite on the Makunnu River.
The trail continues to Johns Hall, a deserted village, and travels along
steep slopes of the Blue Mountains.
In the Upper Valley, several hikes are offered. Times given below include
four hours return travel time to Port Antonio hotels.
White River Trail: This nine- to 10-hour hike over hard grade starts at
Millbank and continues to White River, which is known as a good spot to
see swallowtail butterflies. Fit travelers can follow the river upstream
to see the seven falls. On the return hike, the trail follows a higher
ground to Millbank for excellent views.
Guava River Trail: This seven-hour hike over difficult terrain starts
at Bellevue. The trail winds into the heart of the Blue Mountains, following
the Guava River much of the time. You can swim and dive in the river and
– if you’re super-fit – can continue upstream to see hot springs.
Watch Hill: This four- to five-hour hike over moderate grade offers two
options to reach Watch Hill, once used by the Maroons as a lookout. Along
the way you’ll see banana plantations still in use and an 18th-century
sugar plantation.
Biking
Some of the island’s most challenging bike rides are in the Blue Mountains
and on the roads south of Port Antonio. If you’re up to the challenge,
you can rent a bike from:
D & L Rentals, 876-993-3282, or Rainbow Rentals, 876-993-2248.
BLUE MOUNTAIN BICYCLE TOURS LTD.
Main Street, Ocho Rios
876-974-7075 or 974-7492, fax 876-974-0635
Excursions with Blue Mountain Tours include brunch, lunch, refreshments
and all bike equipment. The tours cover 18 miles (all downhill) through
the Blue Mountains and the tropical rain forest.
Adventures on Water
Beaches
The beaches of Port Antonio are one of the town’s top attractions, drawing
visitors from overseas as well as local families who come to enjoy the
soft sand.
Boston Beach. Located at Boston Bay about 11 miles east of Port Antonio,
Boston Beach is one of the most popular. It is open daily and no fee is
charged. After a spicy meal at one of the jerk stands, take a dip in the
sea. Be wary of waves at Boston Beach, which are often high enough for
surfers.
Navy Beach, out on Navy Island, is accessible by ferry, which costs about
US $3 per person. Navy Beach is quiet and peaceful, one of three small
beaches on the island (one is clothing-optional).
San San Beach is five miles east of Port Antonio. The beach is small,
but the water is beautiful.
Blue Lagoon is not really a beach, but with water this pretty, who cares?
Blue Lagoon is a must while you’re in the Port Antonio area. Bring your
towel and stay for the day. It’s just one mile east of San San Beach and
is open daily. Admission is charged. This beautiful sight is one that
has to be seen to be believed. The cool, spring-fed waters cry out to
swimmers. Floating docks encourage you to sun a little or you can lie
out on the small beach. After a swim, try some Jamaican dishes in the
casual lagoon-side restaurant. You might hear that the lagoon is bottomless
(Jacques Cousteau dove here to find out), but it has been measured at
a depth of 180 feet.
Frenchman’s Cove in Port Antonio is one of the best beaches on the island.
This stretch of sand is very popular with locals.
Rafting
RIO GRANDE RAFTING
876-993-5778
Hours: 8:30 am-4:30 pm daily, except Christmas and Good Friday
Admission charged
This river ride was the first in Jamaica and is still the most famous.
Wear your swimsuit if you’d like to take a dip in the river. As you head
down the river, be prepared for entrepreneurs to offer you everything
from Red Stripe (“One for you and one for your captain”), overpriced Pepsis,
carved bamboo cups, flowers, bird feeders made from coconut husks, bamboo
whistles and more.
The ride is especially recommended in late afternoon (rafts stop about
3 pm) when you’ll enjoy the sounds of frogs and crickets, sometimes incredibly
loud, from the shoreline. In the late afternoon the banks come alive with
the activity of the rural residents who use this waterway for everything
from clothes washing to bathing or fishing. On a recent trip we watched
two young boys spear fishing along one stretch, a woman doing the weekend
washing on rocks around another bend, and a young boy catching fish by
hand under the muddy banks. Raftsmen expect a tip at the completion of
the journey; US $5-10 is appropriate.
Fishing
Port Antonio is a favorite of deep-sea anglers. Home of the Blue Marlin
Tournament, the quiet community attracts those in search of tuna, kingfish,
wahoo and dolphin. Check with your hotel for local operators or call the
Bonita II, 876-993-3086.
Scuba Diving
The waters off Port Antonio are quieter than those of Ocho Rios or Montego
Bay. Wall diving is especially popular here. Contact Lady G’diver (876-993-9888).
Dive sites near Port Antonio include:
Alligator Head. This 50-160-foot site is for intermediate and advanced
divers and is known for its sea fans, sponges and tubes.
Alligator West. A good choice for beginners, this area has calmer waters.
Look for coral formations and plenty of colorful fish.
Bluehole. Another beginner’s dive. Located near the Blue Lagoon. Watch
for rays in these beautiful waters.
Fairy Hill. This 50-120-foot dive features a pinnacle covered with corals.
Trident Wall. Best for intermediate and advanced divers, this wall dive
showcases black coral, sponges and more.
Birding
Whether you go out on your own or with a guide, you will see an impressive
number of birds in and around Port Antonio. Hotel Mocking Bird provided
us with this list of species that have been sighted on their property:
ring-tailed pigeon (endangered), Jamaican parakeet, chestnut-bellied cuckoo,
Jamaican owl, Jamaican mango, black-billed streamertail (endangered),
Jamaican tody, Jamaican woodpecker, sad flycatcher, rufous-tailed flycatcher,
Jamaican becard, Jamaican crow, white-chinned thrush, Jamaican euphonia,
Jamaican stripe-headed tanager, orangequit, Jamaican oriole, Jamaican
elenia, northern patoo, bananaquit, Caribbean dove, common ground dove,
vervain hummingbird, loggerhead kingbird, greater Antillean bullfinch,
greater Antillean grackle, northern mockingbird, greenrumped parrotlet,
worm-eating warbler, ruddy quail dove, ovenbird, prairie warbler, grey
king bird, Cape May warbler (migrant), white-crowned pigeon, stolid flycatcher,
northern parula warbler, black and white warbler (migrant), American redstart,
blackpoll warbler, black-throated green warbler, mourning warbler (migrant),
turkey vulture, black-throated blue warbler.
Eco-Parks & Natural Delights
CRYSTAL SPRINGS RESORT
Buff Bay (1 hour from Port Antonio)
876-996-1400
Hours: daily
Admission charged
This eco-park is an adventure traveler’s delight. Here, among 158 acres,
you’ll find over 15,000 varieties of plants, one of the largest orchid
collections in the Caribbean and bird watching tours. Accommodations are
also offered (see Where to Stay).
NONSUCH CAVES AND ATHENRY GARDENS
East of Port Antonio (first right after Dragon Bay)
876-993-3740
Hours: 10 am-4:30 pm daily
Admission charged
The three-acre Athenry Gardens are home to the Nonsuch Caves, filled with
stalactites and stalagmites. The caves can be seen on a guided walk along
well-lit passageways. The gardens are especially nice, with many local
species accompanied by mountain views.
REACH FALLS
East of Port Antonio off A4
Hours: daily during daylight hours
Admission charged
These falls are well known for their starring role in Cocktail (Tom Cruise’s
character comes here for a little aquatic hanky-panky). A beautiful setting.
Take a dip in the clear waters here.
SOMERSET FALLS
A4 west to Hope Bay
876-926-0989 or 913-0108
Hours: daily 10-5
Admission charged
These beautiful falls on the Daniel’s River are surrounded by rain forest.
Be sure to wear your bathing suit – you wouldn’t want to miss the chance
to take a dip here. Take a ride on the gondola for a spectacular view,
then stroll around the gardens.
Cultural Excursions
Moore Town
This hometown of the Windward Maroons is 11 miles south of Port Antonio
and was the home of Nanny, a national heroine. The Colonel, the leader
of the Maroons, also lives here and you will probably have the opportunity
to meet him during your visit. You are welcome to walk around the town.
Be sure to see Bump Grave in the town square, the town’s best-known site
and burial place of national heroine Nanny. The tomb of Nanny is decorated
with flags.
Shopping
Port Antonio has one notable shopping center, called the Village of St.
George. Located on West Street, the building was designed using architecture
from around the world to represent the many cultures that built Jamaica.
This center is a good place for souvenirs, unique gifts and some food
items.
<< Back/Volver
|