Negril
Más hacia el oeste en la costa norte,
Negril, bordeado de playas, refugio
poco convencional y favorito de los hippies de los años setenta,
se ha convertido en un centro turístico con cientos de lugares
donde hospedarse. Las instalaciones que se alzan sólo hasta el
nivel de las palmeras van desde posadas y villas sencillas hasta lujosos
resorts con actividades de entretenimiento nocturno.
Hasta hace poco tiempo, sus diez kilómetros de playa eran el secreto
mejor guardado de la isla. Un oasis para las almas amantes de la paz que
buscan la tranquilidad, lejos de las presiones de la vida moderna. El
agua transparente invita a sumergirse a convivir con las infinitas variedades
de peces tropicales o a admirar la pasividad de una romántica puesta
de sol.
Since its early days as a haven for hippies in
the 1970s, the city has long harbored an image as a wild vacation destination.
Nudity is common on the beaches of Bloody Bay. Reggae clubs bring some
of the island’s best music to the cliffs that overlook spectacular sunsets.
And, while not as popular as it was during the 70s, more than one establishment
still sells hallucinogenic teas and vendors still hawk ganja.
The real wildness in Negril lies just outside the city limits. Here, in
an area known as the Great Morass, you can see a side of the country that
most visitors never glimpse. Crocodiles, not vacationers, lie in the steamy
afternoon sunshine. Peddlers sell, not marijuana, but shrimp caught using
techniques over 400 years old. And spectacular birds, not parasailers,
fill the air with dashes of color and a cacophony of exotic sounds.
Today, Negril has gained respectability and is home to all types of resorts
that attract everyone from swingers to families. Law mandates that no
building here can be taller than a palm tree so low-rises follow the coast
from Bloody Bay (named for the days when the whalers cleaned their catch
here) to the cliffs at its southern end, where the Negril Lighthouse still
signals the rocks to ships.
Negril is best known for its seven miles of beach, home to the largest
share of accommodations and plenty of small restaurants. Travelers staying
along this stretch can walk the beach from property to property.
INTERESTING FACT: Booby Cay on the north end of Negril doubled as the
South Sea for Disney’s Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea movie.
Negril : Where to Stay
PRICE CHART
Note that prices, unless otherwise noted, are in US dollars.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Prices are per room, based on double occupancy. In the case of all-inclusive
properties, prices are per person.
$ = up to $50 per day
$$ = $51 to $100 per day
$$$ = $101 to $175 per day
$$$$ = over $175 per day
Negril : Where to Stay
From: Jamaica Adventure Guide
PRICE CHART
Note that prices, unless otherwise noted, are in US dollars.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Prices are per room, based on double occupancy. In the case of all-inclusive
properties, prices are per person.
$ = up to $50 per day
$$ = $51 to $100 per day
$$$ = $101 to $175 per day
$$$$ = over $175 per day
Resorts & Hotels
BAR-B-BARN
Norman Manley Boulevard
876-957-4276, fax 876-957-4679
($)
This 24-room inn is located on Negril Beach. The family-run property has
air-conditioned rooms, on-site dining, satellite TV and, of course, a
great beach. Rooms are located in pink, four-room complexes on a garden
path. The resort is ultra-casual and laid back, perfect for travelers
really wanting to relax. Each unit has a balcony with chairs.
BEACHES NEGRIL
West End Road
876-957-9270, fax 876-957-9269; reservations 800-BEACHES
www.beaches.com
($$$$) (All-inclusive)
Located on Long Bay, this is one of the newest members of the Sandals
family. Unlike the other Sandals resorts, however, Beaches is for everyone:
families, singles and couples. The 225-room property features five specialty
restaurants and plenty of options for fun, ranging from scuba diving to
video games at the Sega Center. This $25 million property is the answer
to all those couples who enjoyed a vacation at Sandals but then wanted
to take the kids back the next time.
Beaches is perched on Negril’s famous Seven Mile Beach and offers something
for everyone. There are three swimming pools, a sports complex with tennis,
volleyball and basketball courts, watersports – you name it, it’s here.
Kids have a full Kids Camp with age-appropriate activities.
CHARELA INN
Norman Manley Boulevard
876-957-4277, fax 876-957-4414
($$-$$$)
This 49-room hotel sits right on the beach in town. Its recently refurbished
rooms are within steps of the sand; each has a private patio or balcony.
One of our Negril favorites, Charela has excellent dining and is home
to LaVendome Restaurant. Rooms are air conditioned and facilities include
a pool, watersports and fitness center.
CHUCKLES
Norman Manley Boulevard
876-957-9151, fax 876-957-9150
($$-$$$)
Located in the community of Negril, this 73-room hotel offers air-conditioned
rooms, a pool, satellite TV, tennis and a fitness center. Rooms aren’t
directly on the beach, but they do have a good view of Negril.
COCO LA PALM SEASIDE RESORT
Norman Manley Boulevard
876-957-4227, fax 876-957-3460; reservations 800-896-0987
www.cocolapalm.com
($$-$$$)
Coco La Palm is a quiet property with lush grounds and a beautiful stretch
of beach. Our room, like most of those at the newly constructed resort,
was large, and included a mini-refrigerator and a small patio. Home of
the Seaside Bar and Grill.
CORAL SEAS BEACH RESORT
Norman Manley Boulevard
876-957-9226, fax 876-957-4269
($$$) (All-inclusive optional)
This beachfront 32-room inn offers air-conditioned rooms, kitchen facilities,
satellite TV, watersports and a restaurant. Guests are welcome to enjoy
facilities at the two other Coral Seas properties: Coral Seas Cliff and
Coral Seas Garden. Amenities here include scuba diving, volleyball, wave
running, snorkeling trips, massage and more.
THREE-FOR-ONE
The property has an all-inclusive option. Those who sign up can stay at
sister properties, use facilities at all three resorts, enjoy meals and
drinks at all three resorts and make use of the free airport shuttles
from Montego Bay. It also includes shuttle service between resorts, a
sunset sail or snorkel cruise, horseback riding, nanny service for young
travelers, river safari, a half-hour of jet skiing and a massage.
CORAL SEAS CLIFF
West End
876-957-3147, fax 876-957-4269
($$-$$$) (All-inclusive optional)
This new 26-room inn is, predictably enough, located on the cliffs of
Negril. You can swim in the pool or dive from the cliffs. Rooms are air
conditioned and include satellite TV; the hotel has a restaurant and bar,
freshwater pool, and a shuttle to a private beach. Guests are welcome
to enjoy facilities at the two other Coral Seas properties. The hotel
itself has good snorkeling off the cliffs (with easy access into the water
other than diving in).
The property has the same all-inclusive option as is described above for
the Coral Seas Beach Resort.
CORAL SEAS GARDEN
Norman Manley Boulevard
876-957-4388, fax 876-957-4269
($$) (All-inclusive optional)
This 22-room inn is adjacent to the Royal Palm Reserve and is a favorite
with birders. Rooms are air conditioned and there’s a restaurant on site.
Other facilities include a pool and satellite TV. Of special interest
to adventure travelers, this property also has an adjoining river walk
and bird sanctuary. Guests who stay at this property are welcome to enjoy
facilities at the two other Coral Seas properties.
The property has the same all-inclusive option as is described above for
the Coral Seas Beach Resort.
COUPLES NEGRIL
Norman Manley Boulevard
800-268-7537
www.couples.com
($$$$) (All-inclusive)
This is the newest resort in the city, a couples-only property that exudes
a relaxed Caribbean atmosphere. As with Couples Ocho Rios, everything
is included, from top-shelf liquors to watersports to transfers, as well
as some off-property tours.
AUTHORS’ TIP: Be sure to ask about the package deal combining a stay at
Couples Ocho Rios with Couples Negril.
DEVINE DESTINY
Summerset Road
876-957-9184, fax 876-957-3846
($$)
This hotel is especially popular with Europeans and vacationing Jamaicans.
It sits away from the beach, but a free shuttle service is available.
Built around a beautiful pool area, the rooms have refrigerators and air
conditioning or ceiling fans (make your requests if this is important
to you).
FOOTE PRINTS ON THE SAND
Norman Manley Boulevard
876-957-4300, fax 876-957-4301
($$$)
Nestled right on Negril Beach, this 30-room resort has air-conditioned
rooms, satellite TV, beach, tennis, watersports and kitchen facilities.
It is especially known for its Friday night beach barbecues. Along with
superior and deluxe rooms, two-bedroom units are also available. The hotel
also has a dive shop on site.
GRAND LIDO NEGRIL
Norman Manley Boulevard
876-957-5011, fax 876-957-5517; reservations 877-GO-SUPER
www.superclubs.com
($$$$) (All-inclusive)
Part of the SuperClubs chain, this elegant resort is for overachievers
who want to relax and kick back on the beach, but still enjoy 24-hour
room service, top-shelf liquors and all the amenities of a fine resort.
Grand Lido is especially proud of its M/Y Zein, a 147-foot yacht that
takes guests on sunset cruises.
INTERESTING FACT: The yacht was originally a wedding gift from Aristotle
Onassis to Prince Rainier and Princess Grace.
Daily lessons are offered in snorkeling, scuba diving, tennis and water
skiing. For something less strenuous, there’s the white sand beach for
lazy (and, along one stretch, nude) sunbathing or satellite TV back in
the room. Recently, the property has added a spa and completed construction
on 10 suites, including a presidential suite with private outdoor Jacuzzi.
The resort presently offers tennis, a fitness center, windsurfing, transfers
to and from Negril Hills Country Club, watersports and a meeting facility
for up to 200 attendees.
HEDONISM II
Norman Manley Boulevard
876-957-5200, fax 876-957-5289; reservations 877-GO-SUPER
www.superclubs.com
($$$-$$$$) (All-inclusive)
Hedonism II is a unique resort. It’s definitely not for everyone, but
for those who like a party-around-the-clock atmosphere, it can’t be beat.
Hedonism II draws travelers from around the world with its teen-fun feeling
in an adults-only version. Guests are tempted with Bacchanalian feasts,
bars open until 5 am, a disco that closes when the last reveler calls
it quits and clothing-optional beaches. Every night is a party, and the
biggest blowout occurs on Thursday.
Most meals at Hedonism II are served buffet style on the roofed terrace
featuring a cool peach and gray decor. From breakfast to dinner, the buffets
tempt diners with an orgy of foods ranging from local specialties like
curried goat or jerk pork to such dishes as beef Wellington or ravioli.
For a more elegant night out, reserve a table at the resort’s specialty
restaurant, Pastafari.
After dinner, a nightly show is organized by the resort’s entertainment
crew. You’ll see guests and staff strut their stuff during talent night
(which might include an amateur strip-tease), fly through the air during
the circus show, or bend over backwards for the limbo contest.
Located on 22 lush tropical acres, Hedonism II offers plenty of natural
beauty. A few barefoot steps from the sea, coconut palms, flowering hibiscus
and banana trees create a mood of seclusion and privacy. The hotel faces
the clear blue waters of Bloody Bay, named at a time when whalers cleaned
their catch here.
The beach is the focal point of the resort, however, and it’s part of
seven miles of white sand for which Negril is best known. Once Negril
was a fishing village most commonly regarded as a hangout for ganja-smoking
Rastafarians and hippies who came to camp out on the sand. Today, this
town of 1,600 is still less crowded than its north shore cousins, Montego
Bay and Ocho Rios, but wildly popular with sunset lovers, scuba divers
and sunbathers.
All meals, drinks, watersports, gear, taxes, lessons and entertainment
are included in the package price, and tipping is prohibited. That means
there’s no need to carry cash or credit cards (another plus for nude beach
buffs).
NEGRIL CABINS RESORT
Norman Manley Boulevard
876-957-5350, fax 876-957-5381
($$$-$$$$)
Negril is bordered to the east by the Great Morass. This swampland is
rich with peat, a substance that was considered as a possible energy source
in the 1970s when scientists studied the feasibility of mining it. Environmental
concerns about damage to Negril’s famous beach put a stop to the plans.
During the study of the Morass, these researchers lived in cabins in Negril.
Today, Negril Cabins utilizes those original structures, plus several
new buildings, operating as a resort that combines the luxuries of a hotel
with the natural experience of camping. Visitors enjoy Swiss Family Robinson-style
accommodations in cabins perched on stilts. Lush grounds are filled with
indigenous Jamaican flora and fauna, including colorful hummingbirds.
There are 24 standard rooms with telephone, ceiling fan, private shower
and private balcony. More than 60 air-conditioned superior rooms also
have satellite TV. Dining options include the Coconut Palm Restaurant,
the Alfresco Restaurant for buffet dinners Monday through Friday nights,
a bar and grill at poolside and a beach snack bar.
NEGRIL GARDENS
Norman Manley Boulevard
876-957-4408, fax 876-957-4374; reservations 800-752-6824
www.negrilgardens.com
($$$) (All-inclusive optional)
This resort has an all-inclusive plan, but can also be booked as an EP
(meals-only) stay, dinner only or breakfast and dinner. With 66 rooms,
this pink two-story property is situated on both sides of Norman Manley
Boulevard.
NEGRIL TREE HOUSE
Norman Manley Boulevard
876-957-4287, fax 876-957-4386; reservations 800-NEGRIL-1
www.negril-treehouse.com
($$$)
This 70-room inn on the beach offers air-conditioned rooms, onsite dining,
satellite TV, tennis, watersports and beach parties on Monday nights.
Guests can also opt for some spa treatments, such as massage. Part of
the Insider’s Jamaica program.
OUR PAST TIME VILLAS
Norman Manley Boulevard
876-957-5203, fax 876-957-5422;
Reservations 800-270-0121 or 888-634-7450
www.negriljamaica.com/OurPastTime/index.html
($$$)
These 16 apartments are located near Negril Beach. Most are air conditioned
and have kitchen facilities (there’s also a restaurant and bar on site)
as well as a pool.
RANT AND RAVE
West End Road
876-957-0015, fax 876-957-4383
www.negril.com/rantmain.htm
($)
This eight-room inn on the west side of Negril has air-conditioned rooms,
dining, a pool and satellite TV. Within walking distance of central Negril.
ROCKHOUSE
West End Road
876-957-4373, fax 876-957-0557
www.rockhousehotel.com
($$$)
Another small inn along Negril’s cliffs. Just steps from busy West End
Road, once through the gates at Rockhouse you’ll feel that you are tucked
away from the world. The restaurant and bar are perched high on Negril’s
bluffs and look directly out to sea and an unbeatable sunset. Rooms here
are constructed from wood, thatch and stone, like something out of Gilligan’s
Island. The natural theme of this resort is carried out in the open-air
showers. This inn just added new studio rooms and a spectacular clifftop
pool. “We can give more individual service because we are not a huge hotel,”
explains the managing director. “What is special about this property is
its location on a pristine cove.”
RONDEL VILLAGE
Norman Manley Boulevard
876-957-4413, fax 876-957-4915
www.negril.com/rondrate.htm
($$$$)
This 16-room complex consists of one- and two-bedroom octagon-shaped villas;
all have private whirlpool spas. Villas include maid service, cable TV,
air conditioning, kitchen facilities, restaurant, beach bar, watersports,
pool and satellite TV. The best feature of these units is their three-sided
balcony, perfect for watching the comings and goings along the beach.
ROOTS BAMBOO
Norman Manley Boulevard
876-957-4479
($-$$)
Roots Bamboo advertises itself as the “True Jamacan Vacation.” There is
some of the hippie-era spirit in this funky beach hangoout. It offers
simple accommodations, some with private bath, as well as campsites on
the sand of Negril Beach. A restaurant serves Jamaican specialties for
breakfast, lunch and dinner, and the beach bar will save you from dehydration.
At night, Roots Bamboo becomes a very happening place, drawing people
from the surrounding area to groove at open-air reggae concerts. Local
craftsmen are featured on Wednesday nights, offering their wares to the
public.
SANDALS NEGRIL
Norman Manley Boulevard
800-726-3257 or 876-957-5216, fax 876-957-5338
www.sandals.com
($$$$) (All-inclusive)
Part of the Sandals couples-only chain that originated in Jamaica, this
resort is popular with young, sports-oriented couples. Watersports are
a big offering and the resort even reserves one pool just for scuba lessons.
Tennis, racquetball, squash and other activities are included for landlubbers.
Like other resorts in the Sandals chain, Sandals Negril offers guests
the Stay at One, Dine at Six policy. Guests can dine at other Sandals
resorts if they venture to Montego Bay or Ocho Rios.
SEA SPLASH RESORT
Norman Manley Boulevard
876-957-4041, fax 876-957-4049
($$)
Located right on Negril Beach, this property has air-conditioned accommodations,
a gourmet restaurant, beach bar, satellite TV, pool, Jacuzzi and more.
After a meal at Tan-ya’s, the on-site restaurant, take a few minutes to
look around the pretty resort. This popular family destination offers
15 suites (all one-bedroom), each just steps from the beach.
SWEPT AWAY
Norman Manley Boulevard
800-545-7937 or 876-957-4061, fax 876-957-4060
($$$$) (All-inclusive)
Swept Away Negril is now part of the Issa Resort Collection and has converted
from a couples-only to an adults-only policy. The 134-suite property offers
a 10-acre sports complex with 10 lit tennis courts (two with stadium seating),
racquetball, squash, basketball, a gym and more. A full-service spa, watersports,
scuba diving and unlimited golf at the Negril Hills Golf Club are all
part of the package. The resort also features a conference center for
up to 120 attendees. Swept Away markets itself to fitness and health-conscious
couples. Dining here includes many healthy choices, including Feathers
(see below).
THE CAVES
West End Road
800-OUTPOST
www.islandoutpost.com
($$$$)
At this tranquil property guests fall asleep to the sound of waves echoing
through the namesake for this inn, sea caves formed from ancient volcanic
rock and the pounding surf. In the day, vacationers leave one of the hand-crafted
cottages and snorkel among these grottos and caves or sun on the decks
among the cliffs. A special treat is a massage in the sea cave, during
which you can listen to the undulating waves. The Caves offers Aveda services,
from massage to an invigorating sea salt glow using salts from the Dead
Sea. Breakfast and lunch are served beneath a thatched palapa and dinner
is available by arrangement. The Caves also has a saltwater plunge pool
and cliffside Jacuzzi. Rooms are decorated with hand-carved furniture
and center around a bed draped in mosquito netting. All rooms have CD/cassette
players, TV/VCR, phone and outdoor bamboo-enclosed shower.
XTABI
Lighthouse Road, West End
876-957-4336, fax 876-957-0121
($-$$)
This cliffside hotel is one of our favorite budget properties in Jamaica.
Clinging to Negril’s stony cliffs, Xtabi offers simple rooms, a cliffside
restaurant and plenty of opportunities to sun on the cliffs or snorkel
in the clear waters below. The hotel is built atop five cliff caves that
can be explored; stairs wind down through the cliffs to the water.
Negril : Where to Eat
PRICE CHART
Note that prices, unless otherwise noted, are in US dollars.
RESTAURANT
Restaurant prices indicate the price of a meal,
drink and gratuity for one person.
$ = up to $15 per person
$$ = $15 to $30 per person
$$$ = $30 to $45 per person
$$$$ = over $45 per person
American Restaurants
MARGUERITAVILLE
Norman Manley Boulevard
876-957-4777
($$)
Like its sister property in Montego Bay, this new establishment offers
rowdy fun. The super-casual restaurant is better known for its party atmosphere
than its food. Look for a Frisbee golf course, volleyball, basketball
and a beach club. Serves burgers, sandwiches, fish, chicken, lobster,
and over 50 types of margaritas.
RICK’S CAFE
West End Road
876-957-0380
($$)
Negril’s top sunset bar, Rick’s is also a popular restaurant. Burgers,
filet mignon, kingfish, broiled lobster, jerk chicken, coco bread pizza
and blackened chicken breast are served in the open-air dining room. It’s
definitely not the place to go for a romantic dinner (the daredevils jumping
off the cliffs take care of that), but it is always a fun hangout.
“We’re famous for our view of the sunset,” says co-owner and general manager
Tom Martin. “The crowd gathers and applauds the sunset. Rick’s started
in 1974 and watching the last beam of light for the day has become a tradition.
We keep the traditional Jamaican food and beverage on the menu.”
GREEN FLASH
Rick’s and other spots along Negril’s westward-looking cliffs are favorites
for those looking to see the green flash. Just what is the green flash?
Not the superhero in tights. The lowercase green flash is a natural phenomenon
that, under the right conditions, is seen as the sun drops into the sea,
a momentary green sizzle on the horizon. Science explains it as the refraction
of sunlight through the thick lens of the Earth’s atmosphere. Island lore
links it to romance: couples who witness the flash are guaranteed true
love. All agree it’s a rare sight, requiring just the right combination
of sun, sky and luck. (Skeptics would add other requirements as well.
“How many rum punches does it take to see it?”)
Asian Cuisine
KIMONOS
Sandals Negril, Norman Manley Boulevard
876-957-5216
($$$) (All-inclusive)
This couples-only restaurant features Teppanyaki-style dining; chefs prepare
meals right at the table. Start with Caribbean-style sushi, Cantonese
spring rolls or crab and sweetcorn soup. For the entrées, the chef
prepares a feast of sesame chicken breast, strip steak sukiyaki, sherry
tiger shrimp, pork tenderloin Caribe, ginger teppan scallops, and glazed
marlin teriyaki served with sushi rice and stir-fried vegetables.
TEPPANYAKI
Beaches Negril, West End Road
876-957-9270
($$$) (All-inclusive)
We recently enjoyed a great dinner here. Diners are entertained by their
chef, making this a combination show and dinner. Entrées are prepared
at the table by a teppanyaki chef and include chicken breast yakitori
infused with lemongrass, dry sherry, ginger, sesame oil and spring onions;
pork filet Loisin Jeung brushed with Hoisin sauce and finished with toasted
cashews; and beef teriyaki marinated in a light soy sauce and enhanced
with honey, garlic and pickled ginger. Kids enjoy the Junior Emperors
Platter with vegetable spring rolls, and chicken nuggets and breaded shrimp
served with apricot and honey dip.
Bars
PICKLED PARROT RESTAURANT
West End Road
876-957-4864
($)
The Pickled Parrot is the kind of place you come to get, well, pickled.
Known for its spring break atmosphere, you can’t miss the restaurant if
you’re out boating: just look for the waterslide. A great place for a
sunset dinner, to enjoy American, Jamaican and Mexican dishes.
WARNING: The Pickled Parrot is not a good place for families with young
children because of the steep cliffs close by.
RICK’S CAFE
West End Road
876-957-0380
($)
Even if you don’t come for the dinner, stop by for a drink at sunset.
Caribbean Cuisine
THE SUNDOWNER
Sandals Negril, Norman Manley Boulevard
876-957-5216
($$$) (All-inclusive)
White-gloved service makes a meal at this eatery a special experience.
The couples-only restaurant serves Caribbean cuisine starting with appetizers
such as Bahamian conch salad, ackee and saltfish or Grenadian ham patty.
Entrée options include Jamaican steamed fish; Trinidadian roti;
jerked suckling pig; West Indian cassoulet; and St. Vincent Pelau, chicken
sautéed in brown sugar and cooked with tomato, peas and rice.
Continental Cuisine
FEATHERS CONTINENTAL RESTAURANT
Swept Away, Norman Manley Boulevard
876-957-4061
($$$) (All-inclusive)
Fine dining is the order of the day at Feathers, the gourmet restaurant
of Swept Away. Menu offerings start with pan-seared sweetbreads in a vermouth
reduction, Courvoisier escargots in crisped phyllo and Cornish game hen
galantine on a berry and lemongrass relish. Entrées range from
baked Black River crayfish to ackee-enhanced vegetable bolognaise to roasted
loin of pork with a grain mustard accompanied by mango chutney.
PIACERE
Grand Lido Negril, Norman Manley Boulevard
876-957-5011
($$$) (All-inclusive)
This elegant eatery is one of the best all-inclusive restaurants on the
island, and (unlike the other fine dining restaurants at SuperClubs resorts)
is available only to guests of Grand Lido Negril. Start the meal with
chausson of duck confit; slivers of home-smoked pork tenderloin; seafood
symphony pancake; or chilled mango nectar. Entrées are equally
intriguing: tournedos of Black Angus beef tenderloin; grilled swordfish
grenadine; roasted Provimi veal chop; pan-fried deep-sea halibut; and
roast crown of lamb. Finish off the evening with a taste of Blue Mountain
coffee and a decadent dessert.
Jamaican Restaurants
BAMBOO RESTAURANT
Roots Bamboo, Norman Manley Boulevard
876-957-4479
($)
Jamaican and international dishes are served at this casual eatery. If
you’re not hungry, just stop by the Roots Bamboo Beach Bar for fun on
the sand.
CASAVA TERRACE
Couples Negril, Norman Manley Boulevard
800-268-7537
($$$) (All-inclusive)
Night passes are available for non-guests at Couples Negril, the latest
addition to this resort community’s all-inclusive offerings. The restaurant
offers a fine selection of local cuisine. Choose from such favorites as
brown stew chicken; braised oxtail with broad beans; West Indian vegetarian
roti; grilled lobster medallions with lime-garlic butter; Creole Bloody
Bay stew with okra; baked squirrel fish in banana leaves; and, of course,
rice and peas.
COCONUT PALM RESTAURANT
Negril Cabins Resort, Norman Manley Boulevard
876-957-5350
($$-$$$)
We have fond memories of this open-air eatery that bring back the spicy
tastes of Jamaica and the joy of dining beneath the stars. Jamaican dishes
grace the menu, all prepared by a talented chef. Dress is casually elegant.
DA BUSS
Norman Manley Boulevard
876-957-4405
($)
This restaurant is easy to find: just look for the bus. The colorful double-decker
transport once starred in a Bond flick; now it takes a lead role in casual
Negril dining with jerk and other local favorites.
KUYABA ON THE BEACH
Norman Manley Boulevard
876-957-4318
($-$$)
Dine on international dishes with a Jamaican flair. The mood here is as
casual as can be; feel free to go from the restaurant right out to the
beach.
LAVENDOME RESTAURANT
Charela Inn, Norman Manley Boulevard
876-957-4277
($$$)
Dine inside or outdoors just steps away from the sand at this fun restaurant
that features Jamaican dishes with a French twist.
ORCHID TERRACE RESTAURANT
Negril Gardens, Norman Manley Boulevard
876-957-4408
($$$)
This casual restaurant offers dining with a different theme every night.
On Wednesday night, enjoy a beach barbecue; Sunday is Jamaican night,
featuring the Ashanti Dancers in a spectacular show.
OTAHEITE
Couples Negril, Norman Manley Boulevard
876-957-5370
($$$) (All-inclusive)
Otaheite is the fine dining option at Couples Negril. Dishes offer a gourmet
twist on local cuisine and chefs really outdo themselves with the entrées,
which marry Jamaican ingredients and gourmet talents. Some of the mouth-watering
dishes are: pan-seared Atlantic salmon with jerk coating; grilled lamb
shoulder chops; wild rabbit; and doro wot. Doro wot is the national dish
of Ethiopa, a skinless chicken stew with a blend of Ethiopian spices.
THE ROCKHOUSE RESTAURANT AND BAR
Rockhouse, West End Road
876-957-4373
($$)
Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served at this open-air eatery. Its just
steps from busy West End Road but, once through the gates at Rockhouse
and seated beneath the restaurant’s thatched roof, you are in another
world. The restaurant and bar are perched high on Negril’s bluffs, looking
directly out to sea and an unbeatable sunset. Jamaican cuisine with European
influences is the specialty here.
SEASIDE BAR AND GRILL
Coco La Palm Seaside Resort, Norman Manley Boulevard
876-957-4227
($$)
This open-air restaurant is one of Negril’s best. A diverse menu keeps
things interesting, with Jamaican specialties transformed into culinary
masterpieces. Menu selections include coconut-crusted snapper on a bed
of callaloo; rum and lime broiled chicken breast with honey-lime butter;
and jerk festival fettucine.
SEVILLE
Beaches Negril, West End Road
876-957-9270
All-inclusive
Non-guests can buy a night pass for Beaches Negril and select from one
of several restaurants, including this Jamaican eatery. Here, white-gloved
attendants serve Jamaican dishes prepared with a gourmet flair. Menu selections
include jerked salmon fillet; grilled beef tenderloin; lamb loin Wellington;
pimento wood-smoked pork loin; and pan-seared veal medallions.
SWEET SPICE
1 White Hall Road
876-957-4321
($)
At Sweet Spice you’ll be cooled by a small fan and the breeze that comes
through the open doorway. Artwork on the blue tinted walls consists of
framed towels with Jamaican axioms. But this restaurant is the real thing:
a Jamaican diner with food to match. Conch steak, barbecued chicken and
curried goat, shrimp and chicken are top offerings, served with rice.
Cool off with a pawpaw daiquiri or a piña colada. For a real taste
of Jamaica home cooking, this restaurant is one of the best spots in Negril.
TAN-YA’S
Sea Splash Resort, Norman Manley Boulevard
876-957-4041
($-$$)
Save plenty of time for a meal at Tan-yas... you’ll need it. We enjoyed
breakfast here, but were starting to think about lunch when our plates
finally came out. This is a small operation with an even a smaller kitchen,
so don’t expect fast food turnaround times. As Jamaicans often say, soon
come and yes, it will soon come. Be patient. Enjoy the beautiful beach.
Take a walk if you like. When it comes, your meal will have been worth
the wait. We ordered ackee and bacon, a delightful twist on a traditional
island favorite. It was one of the best breakfasts we’ve ever had. You
can also have lunch or dinner in this casual eatery, where each table
is tucked beneath its own palm-thatched roof.
Rastafarian Restaurants
THE HUNGRY LION
West End Road
876-957-4486
($-$$)
This relaxed place serves excellent vegetarian cuisine. Dishes such as
a meatless shepherd’s pie and pastas are flavorful.
Seafood Restaurants
COSMO’S SEAFOOD RESTAURANT AND BAR
Norman Manley Boulevard
876-957-4330
($$$)
Cosmo’s is a long-time favorite. Very casual, the restaurant is right
on the beach and folks wander in and out on their way to the sand and
sea.
Negril : Transportation
Presently, the road to Negril is being rebuilt to straighten out many
of the curves and shorten travel times. It will become a better route,
but be aware that the construction can cause delays right now. Many travelers
on a tight schedule opt to take an intra-island flight from Montego Bay.
The 17-minute flight goes into Negril airport, where taxis are available
to take you to any resort.
Once you arrive in Negril, getting around is fairly easy, whether you
choose to drive yourself or rely on the plentiful taxi service.
On the north edge, entering from Montego Bay, the resorts begin at Bloody
Bay, location of Grand Lido Negril, Hedonism II and Sandals Negril. This
stretch of beach is across the street from the Negril airport, behind
which lies a giant swamp called the Great Morass. Continuing south, Bloody
Bay gives way to Long Bay, home of the seven-mile-long Negril Beach. Along
this stretch lie both big name resorts such as Beaches Negril and Poinciana
Beach Resort as well as small inns under 50 rooms (and many much smaller).
Travelers enjoy walking along the beach for miles and will find many beach
bars and restaurants right on the sand. The resorts all sit on Norman
Manley Boulevard, the main thoroughfare through the area, dividing the
beach from the Great Morass.
Heading south, the beach is eventually broken by the intersection of the
South Negril River, which marks the entrance to downtown Negril. Just
north of the river lies the Negril Crafts Market, a ramshackle collection
of buildings filled with woodcarvings, paintings and handmade jewelry,
all representing the spirit of Negril. South of the market lies the roundabout
and Norman Manley Boulevard becomes West End Road.
To the east, Sheffield Road turns toward Savanna-La- Mar (known locally
as Sav-La-Mar). West End Road traces the shoreline, which becomes less
sandy and more rocky and eventually gives way to steep cliffs. Along this
section are some budget getaways that are favored by young travelers as
well as many longtime Negril fans. Many of the small properties are built
right out on the cliffs and one even utilizes the sea caves as guest areas
(we had a massage inside a sea cave at The Caves). Also here is the Negril
Lighthouse, which offers the best view of the region.
Car Rentals
Read the precautions listed on page 60 before deciding to rent a car for
your stay. There are several rental agencies in Negril.
CAR RENTAL AGENCIES
Dollar Rent-A-Car
876-957-4110
Paradise Jeep and Car Rental
876-957-4213
Safari Auto Rental
876-957-3306
Taxis
Taxis are the most popular method of transportation for travelers. They
can be found at any hotel, the airports, and most shopping areas. Travelers
should be careful to use only licensed taxis; these have a red license
plate that indicates the taxi is a Public Passenger Vehicle (PPV). If
you need to call a taxi, contact the official carrier: Jamaica Union of
Travelers Association or JUTA (876-957-9197 in Negril). Taxi rates vary,
but are figured by car, not by passenger. Fares average about US $5-7
for 10 miles. If you accept a driver’s offer of his services as a tour
guide, be sure to agree on a price before the vehicle is put into gear.
Bus Service
This popular mode of transport in Negril can be crowded and slow. The
buses are generally not air-conditioned. Buses will stop anywhere along
the route to pick up passengers. To catch one, stand by the side of the
road with your arm outstretched; pat down with your hand when you see
an oncoming bus. Bus fare is about US $1 for 30-40 miles.
Bicycle Rentals
WARNING: Traffic can be hectic on the busier stretches of Norman Manley
Boulevard, so ride with care.
Many of the larger properties have bicycles available for guest use; if
yours doesn’t, call one of these outfitters.
BICYCLE RENTAL AGENCIES
Coco Bike Rental
876-957-4250
Dependable Bike Rental
876-957-4764
Elvie’s Bike Rental
876-957-4331
Gas Bike Rental
876-957-4835
Holiday Bike Rental
876-957-4968
Jah Bs Bike Rental
876-957-4235
Jolly’s Bike Rental
876-957-3385
Kool Bike Rental Limited
876-957-9224
Nortigo Bike Rental
876-957-4711
Pedro Bike Rental
876-957-4757
Reids Bike Rental
876-957-4369
Tike’s Bike Rental
876-957-0388
Wright’s Bike Rental
876-957-4908
Guided Tours
APPLETON ESTATE
Jamaica Estate Tours
876-963-9215 or 876-963-9508, fax 876-963-9218
(or check with your hotel’s tour desk)
Hours: 9-3:30 daily, except Sundays
Admission charged
See Sightseeing for details about tours of this estate.
BLACK RIVER SAFARI CRUISE
Black River
876-965-2513
Open daily
The tour to Black River is a popular one from Negril, especially for travelers
who are staying for an entire week in the beach community. It gives you
a good chance to get out and see the undeveloped areas of Jamaica, such
as the wilderness along the Black River, still home to crocodiles as well
as many bird species.
JACANA AQUA TOURS LTD.
Black River
876-965-2513
Hours: 8:30 am-5 pm daily
Another tour to Black River, this package trip also includes a visit to
YS Falls.
SHAFSTON TOURS
Bluefields
876-997-5076
E-mail frank.shafston@cwjamaica.com
www.shafston.com
These guided tours give travelers a real taste of Jamaica with hikes,
historic site visits, fishing and more. Here’s a rundown of the Shafston
offerings:
n Mayfield Falls. A one-hour drive through the sugarcane fields leads
to these remote falls. Bring along a swimsuit and water shoes as well
as a camera (the guide will carry it for you). The tour includes lunch.
n YS Falls, Apple Valley/Appleton, and Bamboo Avenue. This tour goes through
Middle Quarters (be sure to buy some peppered shrimp from the ladies along
the roadside) to YS Falls. At Apple Valley, travelers can fish; another
option is to visit Appleton Rum Factory (admission price is not included
in the tour price). Finally, the trip winds back through Bamboo Avenue
to Shafston Great House, finishing the day with a cold jelly coconut.
n Black River, Lover’s Leap, Treasure Beach. This South Coast tour includes
a boat ride up the Black River for a look at crocodiles, a drive to Lover’s
Leap for a spectacular view, and on to Treasure Beach. Travelers are warned
that swimming can be dangerous here because of strong undertow.
n Negril. These excursions start at the famous Negril Beach and market.
Later, participants can jump off the cliffs on the West End. Be sure to
bring beachwear, camera, film and snorkel gear.
n Savanna-La-Mar, Little Bay, Bob Marley’s House. Visits the market of
Savanna-La-Mar and continues to the fishing community of Little Bay, former
home of Bob Marley. Here he lived with beauty queen Esther Anderson. Tours
take a look at the house (tour price includes house admission).
n Bamboo Avenue, Alligator Pond, Gut River, Alligator Hole River, Manatees.
This tour is a favorite with nature lovers as it winds through Bamboo
Alley to the community of Alligator Pond, a fishing village, then on to
Gut River. At Alligator Hole River you can often spot manatees. Bring
along bathing suits, cameras and maybe even your snorkel.
n Horseback Riding. Ride at Paradise Park, a farm between Bluefields and
Savanna-la-Mar, and afterwards go for a swim at a private river park.
Bring long pants for the horseback ride and swimming gear.
n Kingston, Blue Mountain, Port Antonio. This three-day excursion includes
a visit to the Bob Marley Museum in Kingston then a drive over the Blue
Mountains to Port Antonio for a stay in a local guest house. In Portland,
stops include San San Beach, Frenchman’s Cove, Boston Beach and Reach
Falls. The tour continues along the North Coast to Dunn’s River Falls.
n Scuba Diving. With two days advance notice, divers (at least six in
the party) can go underwater and explore the area between Bluefields and
Little Bay on the South Coast.
n Deep-Sea Fishing. Half- and one-day cruises are available from Bluefields
Bay. Try your luck for tuna, barracuda, kingfish and marlin.
TOURWISE
Offices at Negril Gardens Hotel
876-974-2332 or 974-2334
This company offers guided tours of the country’s top attractions, including
Dunn’s River Falls, Black River Safari, rafting, Cockpit Country, Kingston,
Mayfield Falls, Blue Lagoon, and more. Tours are available in English,
French, Spanish, German, Italian and Dutch.
Negril : Things To Do And See
APPLETON ESTATE
Jamaica Estate Tours
876-963-9215 or 876-963-9508, fax 876-963-9218
(or check with your hotel’s tour desk)
Hours: 9-3:30 daily, except Sundays
Admission charged
It’s a beautiful drive from Negril to the Appleton Estate, located on
the South Coast. Tours take a look at the distillery and the rum-making
process. Visitors enjoy a taste and receive a complimentary sample bottle.
ANANCY FUN PARK
Norman Manley Boulevard
Hours: sunup to sundown
876-957-5100
Admission, per ride
Anancy Park welcomes families with an 18-hole miniature golf course, go-kart
racetrack, carousel and power wheels for the youngest visitors. Families
can also take a WaterSkeeter pontoon paddleboat in the small lake and
youngsters can borrow a fishing pole to try their luck in the well-stocked
pond.
NEGRIL LIGHTHOUSE
West End Road
Open daily
876-957-4875
Admission: tip
This 100-foot-high lighthouse is open for tours. Just stop by the caretaker’s
cottage next door and ask to see it. Bring good walking shoes for the
climb; the iron steps are extremely steep. If you’ve got a problem with
heights, skip this stop.
YS FALLS
876-997-6055
Open daily except Monday (closed)
Admission charged
Often part of a guided tour to Black River, YS Falls is well worth a trip
of its own. We think these falls are as beautiful as Dunn’s River falls,
but without the crowds. The pristine spot retains a quiet atmosphere every
day of the week. Bring your bathing suit as well as walking shoes.
Hiking
MAYFIELD FALLS AND MINERAL SPRING
876-957-9185 or 957-3075
Hours: 9-6 daily
Admission charged
A good tour for nature lovers, this visit includes a guided hike up the
river with a stop at a bar and grill along the way. You’ll then continue
via a bamboo bridge across a gorge.
Also see Shafston Tours for information about guided excursions to the
falls.
Golf
NEGRIL HILLS
On the road to Savannah-La-Mar
876-957-4638
These rolling greens feature 18 holes, a clubhouse, bar, restaurant, pro
shop and tennis. It’s not one of the island’s top rated courses, but it
does have a liquor mobile! Greens fees are $58. Facilities include a clubhouse,
restaurant and a pro shop. Par 72; 6,333 yards.
Adventures on Wheels
RUSTY’S X-CELLENT ADVENTURES
Negril PO Box 104, Westmoreland
876-957-0155, fax 876-957-4108
E-mail jamtnbikeassc@cwjamaica.com
www.nyws.com/rusty
Rusty’s X-Cellent Adventures was established in 1996 by Americans Rusty
Jones and Linda Levy and has been featured on national television as well
as a long list of bike and travel magazines. This company has all sorts
of Negril area bike tours for adventure travelers, whether you’re a dedicated
biker or still discovering those muscles. The company has used old footpaths
(as well as cow and goat paths) to create bike trails through the hills
and along the coast. Some trips visit cane fields and rivers, others go
to caves. The most adventurous tour takes bikes right off the cliffs on
Negril’s West End – only for those extreme adventure travelers!
Adventures on Water
Beaches
Negril is basically one long, seven-mile beach. This is as good as it
gets for real beach devotees. The atmosphere here is still much like it
has been for the past 30 years: relaxed, laid back and not too developed.
Most of the seven miles of sand have been built upon, but the facilities
are small, quaint jerk stands, tiny outdoor eateries, and a few guest
houses sprinkled among the hotel properties. There’s non-stop action along
the beach and vendors can come up to the high water line, but behind this
line visitors can relax in peace.
AUTHORS’ TIP: Nude beaches are found at Hedonism II and Grand Lido Negril;
both have beach bars and grills.
Fishing
Several operators offer excursions for deep-sea fishing excursions from
Negril.
DEEP-SEA CHARTERS
Best Boat Reef Tour, 876-995-9709
Blue Whale Divers, 876-957-4438
Sea Raider, Our Past Time, 876-957-4224
Wild Thing, Mahogany Inn, 876-957-4401/2
Cliff Diving
On the West End, cliff diving is something of a local sport and a quick
way into the clear water. You can dive, jump or fly out on a rope swing
at many places along the cliffs. Be sure to watch the locals, who have
perfected their jumps. Keep an eye on your children around here.
The local hotspots to meet divers (and be seen) are Rick’s and the Pickled
Parrot. There’s even a waterslide at the Pickled Parrot that hurdles you
off the cliff and into midair for a cliff cannonball if you like. Each
slide will cost you a dollar.
Scuba Diving
Negril offers some of the best scuba diving on the island. With its protected
waters, this area is one of the best in Jamaica for beginning divers.
There’s a wide variety of dive sites to suit all levels, from coral formations
to caves to wrecks. Dive sites include:
n The Throne Room. Here you can see through a crack in the reef and view
nurse sharks.
n Sands Club, a 40-80-foot dive, is filled with all types of tropical
fish.
n Treasure Reef is known for its large coral heads.
n Pete Wreck (a 50-foot tugboat)
n Two wrecked Cessna planes.
Operators offer both day and night dives.
DIVE OPERATORS
Blue Whale Divers, 876-957-4438
Couples Negril, 876-957-5960
Hedonism II, 876-957-4200
Marine Life Ventures, 876-957-4834
Mariner’s Dive Centre, 876-957-0392
Negril Scuba Centre, 876-957-4425
Sandals Resort, 876-957-5216
Swept Away, 876-957-4061
West Point Watersports, 876-957-5521
Also see Shafston Tours for information about guided diving trips.
Adventures on Horseback
RHODES HALL PLANTATION
Green Island
876-957-6333 or 6334
Hours: Sunday through Friday
Admission charged
These guided rides travel through banana and coconut groves as well as
into the hills and on the beach. Also see Shafston Tours, for information
about guided horseback riding excursions.
Eco-Travel
ROYAL PALM PRESERVE
Located on the southern side of the Great Morass, this preserve protects
the wetlands and the royal palms that thrive here. As of now, there are
no trails into the preserve; part of it can be seen from the Negril Golf
Club.
Cultural Excursions
Historic Sites
BLUEFIELDS
Negril to Savanna-La-Mar to A2
The coastal town of Bluefields was one of the first founded by the Spanish.
Henry Morgan – once a pirate, later a governor – sailed from here over
three centuries ago.
Bluefields was once home base of naturalist Philip Gosse. The grounds
here are home to what’s said to be Jamaica’s oldest breadfruit tree, brought
to the island by old Captain Bligh himself.
Bluefields is also home to the Shaftson Great House, which offers great
views. From here, Frank Lohmann conducts Shaftson Tours.
BELMONT
Belmont, next to Bluefields, is best known as the birthplace of Peter
Tosh. The late musician is now buried here in a small building manned
by devoted fans. For the price of a tip, you can sign a guest book and
visit the memorial. Tosh’s tomb lies above ground in the center of the
small building, surrounded by photos of him throughout his career.
Sports Complex
Negril is home to an excellent sports complex at the Swept Away resort.
Tennis (hard court and clay courts), a 25-meter pool, squash, racquetball,
and more are available. If you’re not a guest at Swept Away, 876-957-4061
to inquire about purchasing a day pass.
Shopping
Negril doesn’t offer the extensive shopping of the cruise port cities
of Mo Bay or Ocho Rios, but foodies will find some good stops. The Hi-Lo
Grocery Store, on West End Road in the Hi-Lo Shopping Centre, is one of
our favorites. Stop by to purchase spices, hot sauces and Blue Mountain
coffee at prices far lower than you’ll see in the hotel gift shops. While
you’re at the shopping mall, walk from shop to shop for a good selection
of souvenirs, liquor, local music, cigars and sportswear.
At press time, a new shopping area was opening called Time Square on Norman
Manley Boulevard. This mall promises to bring the duty-free shopping that’s
formerly been found only in Mo Bay and along the coast from Ochi to Negril.
Look for fine jewelry, watches, designer clothing, perfumes, leather goods
and more.
Local Crafts
Negril is home to the Negril Crafts Market, just off Norman Manley Boulevard
as you head south into town. The market isn’t much to look at, just a
collection of rickety buildings, but the atmosphere is fun and there are
some good crafts to be found if you persevere. We recently bought a very
nice woodcarving here for US $12, along with some beaded jewelry starting
at $3. The market is much quieter than those in Mo Bay and Ocho Rios,
so don’t expect to hide in the masses – you will be spotted and asked
(make that requested) to “come look at my things.” Go with the flow, put
a smile on your face, and enjoy the experience in good humor.
AUTHORS’ TIP : Bargaining is very much a part of the game; shoot for about
half the asked price on most goods.
Nightlife
Negril is known for its nightlife – not the glitzy, dress-up kind, but
the funky, barefoot style that’s the essence of Negril. You’ll find that
every night, one particular club is the place to be. Throughout the day,
you’ll often hear cars with loudspeakers driving up and down Norman Manley
Boulevard announcing that night’s show. As you walk through town, notice
the neon signs indicating upcoming acts.
AUTHORS’ TIP : We recommend asking your hotel concierge for the best night
spots. No concierge? No problem. Just about anyone in Negril can point
you to that night’s hot spot. We tested it out recently and everyone,
from front desk staff to the taxi drivers, knew the place to be on any
given night.
Beach Shows
ALFRED’S OCEAN PALACE
Norman Manley Boulevard,
876-957-4735
Wear your shorts and t-shirt for Alfred’s, a genuine beach bar. The shows
are held outside (actually, there’s not really an inside). The crowd of
both locals and tourists fills the beach.
KUYABA BEACH RESTAURANT AND BAR
Norman Manley Boulevard,
876-957-4318
This eatery features all types of tropical music early in the evenings.
RISKY BUSINESS
Norman Manley Boulevard,
876-957-3008
Like Alfred’s, Risky Business is another happening reggae joint.
Disco
HEDONISM II
Norman Manley Boulevard,
876-957-5200
There’s no hotter place in Negril (or on the island, for that matter)
than the disco at Hedonism II. You’ll have to pay a hefty fee for a night
pass, which includes all your drinks and food once you’re on property.
The disco features an incredible light and sound system and a rotating
theme. The most popular night is Tuesday, when it’s PJ night and anything
goes: thong bikinis, bondage suits, you name it. The action doesn’t start
until after 11 and goes on until the last person staggers out of the disco.