| Kingston
Aunque el idioma oficial es el inglés,
la mayoría de los habitantes habla patois (una mezcla de inglés
y formas africanas con palabras de toda procedencia). De hecho, Kingston
es la ciudad angloparlante más grande al sur de Miami. Llamada
también la "Capital Cultural del Caribe", está
situada en el séptimo puerto más grande natural a nivel
mundial. Su estratégica ubicación entre Norte y Suramérica
la convierte en destino de preferencia para las reuniones de negocios
en su Conference Center.
En las faldas de la Cordillera Blue Mountain se vive un ambiente dinámico
y cosmopolita donde conviven lo antiguo y lo avant-garde, lo amable y
lo indomable, lo eterno y lo que está a la última moda.
Al visitarla, uno puede unirse a la gente de moda en la representación
al aire libre del Teatro Nacional de Danza, aplaudir a los famosos cantantes
de folk; explorar los tesoros de la Galería de Arte Nacional, descubrir
la Fortaleza del Pirata Henry Morgan; o admirar los fascinantes recuerdos
en el Museo Bob Marley, el último tributo de Jamaica al fallecido
gran padre del reggae.
The capital city of Kingston
lies on the south shore. This metropolitan area of over 800,000 residents
is visited primarily by business travelers. Within this sprawling metropolis,
however, beats the true heart of Jamaica. Travelers interested in the
culture and history that define this island nation should make time for
a visit to Kingston, the largest English-speaking city.
Kingston is not an easy city to love. Its big, brash and boisterous. Life
spills out from storefronts and homes onto the streets, filling the sidewalks
and every inch of available space. Goats roam the downtown area, sidewalk
vendors peddle all type of merchandise from carts and tables, pedestrians
are everywhere.
Kingston dates back to 1692. The city is built along the harbor, stretching
from the Blue Mountains in the east to the boundaries of Spanish Town
in the west. Kingston is not for everyone. It does not offer a relaxing,
fun-in-the-sun vacation. Head to the North Coast resort communities for
that type of getaway. Instead, if you’ve had a few dates with Jamaica
and you’re ready to visit her parents, then it’s time to head to Kingston.
Things aren’t always pretty here, but its a necessary part of the experience.
The commercial center of Kingston sits along the waterfront. Here, goods
come and go from around the world. Near the Jamaica Conference Centre,
the waterfront takes on a pedestrian look, as people get out to enjoy
the sunshine, to share conversation, and to buy local foods from vendors.
Look out across the waters and you’ll see a peninsula. This is where Norman
Manley International Airport is located. Beyond the airport lies the fishing
village of Port Royal, once one of the greatest cities in the Caribbean.
Nicknamed “the wickedest city in Christendom,” Port Royal was a hangout
for the pirates of the Caribbean. All that rollicking fun came to a screeching
halt on June 7, 1692, when a violent earthquake shook the region and pummeled
Port Royal into the sea. Archaeologists have recovered artifacts from
the scandalous community and today shoppers can buy reproductions of Port
Royal pewter plates and cups from Things Jamaican.
Port Royal is just a small fishing village. If you’re here at lunch, eat
at Gloria’s fish shack, where you can sit on picnic tables under the awning
and enjoy fish: escovitch, fried or steamed.
The following section below will help to define what a means to experience
Kingston: Where To Stay
PRICE CHART
Note that prices, unless otherwise noted, are in US dollars.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Prices are per room, based on double occupancy. In the case of all-inclusive
properties, prices are per person.
$ = up to $50 per day
$$ = $51 to $100 per day
$$$ = $101 to $175 per day
$$$$ = over $175 per day
Hotels, Resorts & Inns
CHRISTAR VILLAS
99 Hope Road
876-978-8066, fax 876-978-8068
($$-$$$)
This 32-room villa property has air-conditioned rooms, kitchen facilities,
pool and fitness center. It’s right in the heart of Kingston. The standard
rooms offer a double bed, as well as a living area with TV, phone, kitchenette.
THE COURTLEIGH HOTEL AND SUITES
85 Knutsford Boulevard, New Kingston
876-929-9000, fax 876-926-7744
($$$)
This 10-story hotel is a new addition in the business district, although
the Courtleigh name has been familiar to Kingston visitors for many years.
It was originally located a short distance from its present site. The
118-room property is aimed at business travelers, but most people will
find its rooms comfortable. The family-owned hotel includes a restaurant,
nightclub and also a fitness center.
CROWNE PLAZA KINGSTON
211 Constant Spring Road, New Kingston
876-925-7676, fax 876-925-5757; reservations 800-618-6534
($$$)
This fairly new 105-room business hotel is perched in the hills just north
of New Kingston in the neighborhood of Constant Spring. Many rooms have
views of the city and guests have all the amenities common to Crowne Plazas,
such as a fitness center, satellite TV and tennis courts. The hotel includes
a business floor; these rooms offer a fax machine, modem and other amenities
not found in the standard rooms. Facilities include a pool, squash, massage,
sauna and concierge service. Guests can enjoy indoor or outdoor dining
at Isabella’s for a great city view.
HILTON NEW KINGSTON
77 Knutsford Boulevard, New Kingston
876-926-5430, fax 876-7439; reservations 800-HILTONS
($$$)
This hotel was formerly the Wyndham New Kingston and is located in the
hotel section of New Kingston near Le Meridien and The Courtleigh. The
303-room property recently underwent a $15 million renovation. It now
offers guests many facilities, including a health club, sauna, Olympic-size
pool, tennis courts and more. This hotel is especially convenient for
travelers using American Airlines; there’s a service desk in the lobby
so you can make changes, seating requests, etc
LE MERIDIEN JAMAICA PEGASUS
81 Knutsford Boulevard, New Kingston
876-926-3690, fax 876-929-5855
($$$)
The Pegasus is right in the heart of New Kingston, within walking distance
of The Courtleigh and the Hilton Kingston Hotel. The 17-floor property
has 350 guest rooms, each with balcony, satellite TV, hair dryer, safe,
two direct dial phones and coffee maker. Upgraded rooms are found on the
floors set aside for the Knutsford Club members, with separate check-in,
afternoon snacks and upgraded amenities. The large, deep pool at the Pegasus
lies just behind the property and offers a quiet afternoon getaway with
scarcely any traffic noise. Tennis courts and jogging trails are also
available.
MAYFAIR HOTEL
4 West Kings House
876-926-1610, fax 876-926-7741
($-$$)
Adjoining the Governor General’s residence, this 32-room hotel has air-conditioned
rooms, restaurant and pool, and is near the business district. The hotel
offers one-bedroom units as well as one- and two-bedroom suites; all suites
have a TV, living room/dining room, and a kitchenette (maid service also
included).
MORGAN’S HARBOUR
Port Royal
876-967-8030, fax 876-967-8073; reservations 800-528-9000
($$-$$$)
This 45-room property is home to a marina (you can boat out to Lime Cay
from here), restaurant, bar and large garden. Rooms are fairly basic but
many do include a mini-refrigerator. This hotel offers snorkeling, harbor
cruises, fishing, a dive shop and free airport shuttle.
STRAWBERRY HILL
New Castle Road, Irishtown
876-944-8400 or 800-OUTPOST, fax 876-944-8408
www.islandoutpost.com
($$$$)
This sprawling mountainside resort is perched 3,100 feet above sea level,
looking down on Kingston. The atmosphere here is pure nature. Jamaica’s
doctor bird, a hummingbird with an unbelievable plume tail, flits through
the trees. A morning mist hangs over the mahogany trees. The sound of
life in small neighboring villages drifts up from the surrounding valleys.
The resort is one of the Island Outpost properties owned by Chris Blackwell,
founder of Island Records, record label of the late Bob Marley (he recuperated
at this site after he was shot in 1976), as well as Melissa Manchester
and Robert Palmer. Like other Island Outposts, it is exclusive and unique.
There are 12 wooden villas, each filled with antique Jamaican decor. The
villas look out on the Blue Mountains from bedrooms, living rooms and
expansive porches. We spent part of our time just lazing about in an oversized
hammock on our porch. Every room has electric mattress pads to warm up
the bed on chilly evenings, mosquito-netted, four-poster mahogany beds,
stocked kitchenettes, coffee makers, televisions, VCRs and even CD players
with a full array of CDs (okay, some of them are Island Record productions,
but they fit the tone of the place). Videos are available for loan.
In January 1998, Strawberry Hill opened a new Aveda Spa, with massage,
hydrotherapy, facials and other body treatments. We enjoyed pedicures,
manicures and a splendid facial. And, at the end of the day, guests can
order spa cuisine or Jamaican dishes with a light touch in the resort
restaurant.
The property has 40 acres of lawns and forests. The grounds were once
part of one of the first coffee plantations in the Blue Mountains. Today
over 350 species still grace these grounds, including some species first
planted centuries ago such as Juniperus, Virginiana, Eucalyptus Nicolae,
Cedrela Odoratissimia and Mangifera Indica (blackie mangoe).
TERRA NOVA
17 Waterloo Road, New Kingston
876-926-9334, fax 876-929-4933
www.cariboutpost.com/terra_nova
($$$)
Terra Nova is New Kingston at its very best: formal, traditional and oh-so
Jamaican. Unlike the modern highrises also found in this business district,
Terra Nova carries on the legacy of Old Jamaica with classic mahogany
furniture, fine art and a wonderful atmosphere that tells you you’re not
staying in another chain hotel.
There are 35 guest rooms at this intimate property, which is a favorite
with those who have been coming to Kingston for many years.
Kingston: Where To Eat
PRICE CHART
Note that prices, unless otherwise noted, are in US dollars.
RESTAURANT
Restaurant prices indicate the price of a meal,
drink and gratuity for one person.
$ = up to $15 per person
$$ = $15 to $30 per person
$$$ = $30 to $45 per person
$$$$ = over $45 per person
Asian Restaurants
ORCHID ROOM
Devon House, 26 Hope Road, New Kingston
876-968-2098
($$$)
This dinner-only restaurant serves authentic Thai cuisine. Pad Thai, pepper
steak, curried dishes, stir-fried chicken and satay fill the menu.
Continental Cuisine
BLUE MOUNTAIN INN
Gordon Town Road
876-927-1700 or 876-927-2606
($$$$)
Reservations are required for this beautiful eatery half an hour out of
Kingston in the misty Blue Mountains, tucked behind a bougainvillea-draped
entrance. The menu features beef and seafood, all served in a classic
English-inn atmosphere. White-glove service makes this a truly elegant
evening. The restaurant is open for dinner only.
Ice Cream
I SCREAM
Devon House, 26 Hope Road, New Kingston
($)
We normally wouldn’t put an ice cream parlor in a restaurant section,
but I Scream doesn’t serve up your typical dairy dessert. You can find
grapenut, guava, mango, soursop and even Devon stout ice creams. Need
we say more?
Jamaican Restaurants
GROG SHOPPE
Devon House, 26 Hope Road, New Kingston
876-929-7027
($-$$)
This excellent restaurant offers both indoor and open-air seating in a
pub-like setting. Just steps from Devon House itself, the restaurant menu
includes pub lunches such as roast beef or corned tongue as well as escovitch
fish or steamed fish in white wine, onions, tomatoes and herbs. Many Jamaican
specialties are offered, including curried goat, ackee and saltfish, roast
suckling pig, baked crab backs, curried chicken, jerked chicken and stuffed
cho-cho.
HOT POT
2 Alamont Terrace, Kingston
876-929-3906
($-$$)
This favorite local hangout serves three meals a day: Jamaican favorites
such as ackee and codfish, rundown and escovitch fish. Wash it all down
with fresh juices – tamarind, coconut water and, if you visit during the
holiday season, sorrel. This popular place offers a real taste of Jamaican
food and a genuine Jamaican atmosphere to match. Very casual.
IVOR GUEST HOUSE
Jacks Hill
876-978-3476 or 876-978-3479
($$-$$$)
When you’re ready for a break from continental or Jamaican food, this
elegant restaurant serves Cantonese and Thai delights. Don’t miss the
dim sum on Sunday afternoons.
LA FRESCA BAR AND GRILL
Terra Nova Hotel, 17 Waterloo Road, New Kingston
876-926-9334 or 876-926-2211
($$$$ )
We enjoyed an elegant dinner at La Fresca just days before Christmas one
year. It was our last night in Jamaica, and we dined outside on the great
house verandah. Local residents, decked in their holiday splendor, filled
most tables. The restaurant and the hotel were lit by tiny white lights
and the dinner was one we’ll never forget.
Menu selections include peppered shrimp, grilled lobster tail, fish escovitch,
fish soup, conch fritters and fried fish.
PEPPERS
31 Upper Waterloo Road, Kingston
876-969-2421
($-$$ )
Want to feel like a Kingstonian? Then do as the locals do and head to
this casual restaurant, grab a picnic table, and order up some jerk and
a Red Stripe. This is an open-air affair, completely casual. Specialties
of the house include jerk chicken, jerk pork and jerk fish. Garlic crab
and grilled lobster are other favorites. There are two bars here, as well
as a dance floor. The site is a popular after-work place for Kingstonians,
who come on Wednesday and Friday nights for seafood, Tuesday for wine
and cheese accompanied by live country music, karaoke on Thursdays, and
oldies tunes on Sunday evenings. Like the Hot Pot, we recommend this casual
eatery for a real taste of Jamaican food and a real Jamaican atmosphere.
STRAWBERRY HILL
New Castle Road, Irishtown
876-944-8400
($$$)
The open-air restaurant at Strawberry Hill serves a continental breakfast
daily followed by lunch and dinner featuring new Jamaican cuisine. These
innovative dishes are the creation of Jamaican-born Chef James Palmer.
The Sunday brunch is a Kingston event; look for diners in their Sunday
best. Dinner dishes include blackened sirloin steak with red onion marmalade;
grilled jumbo shrimp brushed with rum molasses; and grilled chicken breast
with roasted corn.
Strawberry Hill also offers a spa menu. Items such as grilled yellowtail
snapper with mushroom-tomato broth and free-range grilled chicken breast
on a bed of steamed callaloo with peanut wine sauce liven the palate without
adding unnecessary calories or fat. We recommend this restaurant both
for its spectacular view and for its innovative cuisine featuring Jamaican
dishes with a culinary twist.
Seafood Restaurants
EL DORADO RESTAURANT
Terra Nova Hotel, 17 Waterloo Road, New Kingston
876-926-9334 or 876-926-2211
($$$)
El Dorado is the fine dining option at Terra Nova, known for its seafood
dishes as well as steaks. The air-conditioned restaurant is a favorite
meeting place for the power lunch crowd and is open noon to 2:30 for lunch
and 7 to 11 pm for dinner.
Steak House
BLUE MOUNTAIN INN
Gordon Town Road
876-927-1700 or 876-927-2606
($$$$)
See listing under Continental Cuisine, above
Transportation
Farther east, the business section of downtown is home to many international
corporations, consulate offices, banks, insurance companies, and the world-class
Jamaica Convention Centre. This is the home of the International Seabed
Authority, the UN body that creates all laws for the world’s seas. The
complete story
This modern center lies along the lovely waterfront on Ocean Boulevard,
where parks overlook the harbor and you can enjoy an afternoon with the
locals, dining on street food and absorbing the atmosphere. This area
is generally safe during weekday business hours, but when 5 o’clock rolls
around it takes on the feeling of a ghost town as business people head
back up into the safety of the hills.
Most Kingston travelers spend their time in New Kingston, north of the
downtown area. Bounded by Old Hope Road on the east side and Half Way
Tree Road (which changes to Constant Spring Road) on the west, the main
thoroughfare through New Kingston is Hope Road. Here you’ll find the modern
convention hotels, restaurants and nightclubs preferred by most of the
city’s visitors.
North of New Kingston lies the city’s most beautiful area. Magnificent
homes grace the Constant Springs neighborhood, which offers stunning vistas,
especially in the early evening when you can watch the city lights come
out. East of Kingston, the views are even more spectacular, both day and
night. Follow Hope Road past the University of the West Indies as it becomes
Gordon Town Road and curls its way up into the Blue Mountains.
AUTHORS’ TIP : Hire a good driver for this stretch of Colorado Rockies-type
road. Drop-offs are sheer and there are no guardrails!
Wherever you travel in Kingston you’ll find cuisine from around the globe.
This wealth of dining options is partly due to the 35 international embassies
and consulates based right in this city, the largest number found in the
Caribbean.
Car Rentals
Think twice about renting a car here. Along with the usual Jamaica traffic
problems (which range from goats in the road to king-size potholes), you’ll
be faced with a potential crime problem. With all that said, there are
several car rental agencies in town.
CAR RENTAL AGENCIES
Budget Car Rental 876-924-8762 or 924-8626
Econocar Rentals 876-927-676111
Fiesta Car Rentals 876-926-013314
Island Car Rentals 876-926-5991
Taxis
The best transportation option within Kingston is a taxi. You can catch
one at any hotel, the airports and in most shopping areas. Travelers should
be careful to only use licensed taxis; these have a red license plate
that indicates the taxi is a Public Passenger Vehicle (PPV). Taxi rates
vary but are figured by car, not by passenger. Fares average about US
$5-7 for 10 miles.
Few of Jamaica’s taxis are metered. If you accept a driver’s offer of
his services as a tour guide, be sure to agree on a price before the vehicle
is put into gear.
Guided Tours
Taxi tours are an excellent way to see the city. You can set your own
itinerary and travel at your own pace. Sun Island Tours and Limousine
Service ( 876-901-8826) offers guided tours.
Another option is a guided group tour. You’ll find several tours for different
interests.
GALAXY LEISURE AND TOURS LTD
75 Red Hills Road, Kingston 20
876-925-4176 or 931-0428, fax 876-931-8792
E-mail galax2@cwjamaica.com
www.galaxtours.com
This company offers a large number of both individual and group tours.
Options include a Kingston Historic Tour (Devon House, National Heroes
Park, Craft Market and more), a Kingston Cultural Tour (Terra Nova, Devon
House, Bob Marley Museum, National Art Gallery), Blue Mountain Eco Tour
(with a stop at Sangster’s Liquor Factory), Blue Mountain Highlight Tour,
Kingston by Night, Ocho Rios Highlight Tour (Shaw Park Gardens and Dunn’s
River Falls), a Black River Safari Tour (including YS Falls), Lime Cay
Picnic on Sundays (with transfer from Morgan’s Harbour in Kingston), Rafting
on the Rio Grande with departure from Kingston, Port Antonio Highlights,
and a Kingston Shopping Tour.
TOURING SOCIETY OF JAMAICA
Strawberry Hill
876-975-7158 or 876-944-8400
E-mail lyndaleeburks@yahoo.com or lyndalee@islandoutpost.com
The Touring Society of Jamaica is a unique operator. Since 1991 it has
offered unusual tours that give an insider’s view of the island. Itineraries
include arts, architecture, music, gardens, natural history and epicurean
delights. They are designed for individual interests and might include
such activities as an overnight trip to the Blue Mountains to sample Jamaica’s
best coffee, an afternoon trip to Spanish Bridge in the Ocho Rios countryside,
or a week-long quest for Jamaica’s arts and crafts.
The society is especially known for its mountain hikes into the surrounding
Blue Mountains. Tours include:
n Old Tavern Blue Mountain Coffee Estate. This excursion to one of the
top coffee plantations on the island includes a picnic lunch.
n The Fairy Glade Trail and Newcastle. This hike takes travelers through
several ecosystems, ending the day with sunset at the Gap Café.
n National Gallery and Spanish Town. History and art buffs enjoy this
tour into the city and the nearby historic community of Spanish Town.
n Kingston Nightlife. This is a personalized tour of the nightlife for
which Kingston is known.
The Touring Society plans custom holidays and events in Jamaica and can
best be contacted via e-mail at the above address.
SUN VENTURE
30 Balmoral Avenue, Kingston 10
876-960-6685, fax 876-929-7512
This tour company offers hikes in the Blue Mountains, including camping,
as well as bird watching and caving in the Cockpit Country.
Parks & Sanctuaries
BOON HALL OASIS
4 River Road
876-942-3064
Hours: daily 7-5; Free
This four-acre park offers picnicking, a plant nursery, waterfall and
views of the hills of St. Andrews. There’s a brunch offered here for JA
$760.
GUARDSMAN’S SERENITY FISHING & WILDLIFE SANCTUARY
40 minutes east of Kingston via A1/A2 west
Open daily
Admission charged
A popular new stop with Kingston school groups, this sanctuary was established
by the executive chairman of the Guardsman Group, a security company in
Kingston. A visit to the site starts with a tractor ride through mango
orchards and vegetable plots, then a visit to the animal collection, with
exotic birds and a petting zoo. Food lovers will be interested in the
sanctuary for another reason: local dishes are served for lunch and dinner
in the restaurant. Curried goat, barbecue or jerked chicken, oxtail and
other local dishes are available for US $8-10. You can even fish for red
tilapia and have the restaurant clean and bag your catch for $4 per pound.
Museums
BOB MARLEY MUSEUM
56 Hope Road, Kingston
876-927-9152
Hours: 9 am-5 pm, Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday;
12:30-5 pm, Wednesday and Saturday
Admission charged
Marley fans shouldn’t miss this shrine to the legendary reggae superstar,
housed in what was his home. A visit here includes a tour and a movie
about Marley’s life. The museum is a must for Marley fans, although others
may want to skip it.
INSTITUTE OF JAMAICA
12 East Street
876-922-0620
Hours: Monday through Thursday, 9-4:30
Free
This natural history museum and library covers the island’s rich history
from its days as a home for the Arawak Indians to modern times.
Great House
DEVON HOUSE
26 Hope Road, New Kingston
876-929-6602
Hours: 9 am-5 pm, Tuesday through Saturday
Admission charged
This restored great house is in the heart of New Kingston, near the Terra
Nova Hotel. The home was built in 1889 for £10,000 by a Venezuelan
gold millionaire, whose family lived here until the 1920s.
Today, the historic structure is filled with antiques and antique reproductions
from the 1880s (done by Things Jamaican). Tours, given every 15 minutes,
include a look at the master bedroom, the sewing room, with an illegal
gambling room upstairs (the stairs are hidden in the ceiling), a sunny
ballroom with relief ceiling, original chandelier and an English piano.
Art Gallery
NATIONAL ART GALLERY
Roy West Building, Kingston Mall
876-922-8540
Hours: 11-4:30 weekdays only
Admission charged
This downtown art gallery contains some real treasures. The best-known
artists represented here are Edna Manley (an accomplished artist and wife
of the former prime minister, Norman Manley) and Kapo, whose religious
images have received a lot of attention.
Spa
ROCKFORD MINERAL BATHS
A-1 east of Kingston
876-938-5055
Hours: daily, 6:30 am-6 pm
Admission charged
These natural springs emerged after the earthquake of 1907. Today you
can soak in a whirlpool tub fed by the mineral waters; call ahead to book
the baths.
Other Sites
JAMAICA CONVENTION CENTRE
Duke Street
876-922-9160
Admission for tours
This is well worth a peek, even if you just drive by. The center is one
of the Caribbean’s leading facilities for meetings that require simultaneous
translation services due to its role as headquarters for the International
Seabed Authority, an arm of the United Nations. It is capable of working
with six languages: English, Spanish, French, Chinese, Russian and Arabic.
Built to UN specifications, the building is located on the waterfront
in downtown Kingston. Around-the-clock security protects the center, which
includes a print shop, press area to accommodate up to 40 journalists,
clinic, business services office, delegate lounges and a cafeteria with
seating for up to 250 attendees.
WORLD’S END LTD
Gordon Town
Hours: 10 am-4 pm, Monday-Friday; 12-4 pm, Saturday and Saturday
876-977-5941 or 929-3564
Even non rum-drinkers will find this tour worthwhile, thanks to the beautiful
location. World’s End produces Sangster’s Old Jamaican Liqueurs high in
the Blue Mountains. Factory tours are followed by a taste of the potent
and well-respected rum. World’s End is also recommended for birders, who
may spot Jamaica’s national bird, the doctor bird.
Hiking
BLUE MOUNTAINS-JOHN CROW NATIONAL PARK
B1 to Newcastle is the main route.
No telephone, free
Hours: daily
At 300 square miles (193,260 acres), the park is filled with sites to
challenge adventure travelers of all types – hikers, birders, mountain
bikers. The country’s second largest national park has three distinct
areas: the Blue Mountains Peak (the highest mountain in Jamaica); the
Clydesdale Forest Reserve (a wilderness filled with mahogany, eucalyptus,
and blue mahoe); and the easily accessible Hollywell Recreational Park
(see below).
One of the best ways to experience the park (which in many areas is so
heavily forested you need a machete to hack your way through) is with
a guide. We’ve listed several qualified guides in the Guided Tours section
above.
HOLLYWELL RECREATIONAL PARK
Two miles from Newcastle
Hours: 9:30-6:30 daily
Free
Tucked high in the mountains, this park is a great place to escape from
the heat. With great views, Hollywell offers picnicking and hiking.
Golf
CAYMANAS GOLF CLUB
876-922-3386
Caymanas was Jamaica’s first major championship 18-hole course, dating
from the 1950s. It was designed by Howard Watson and is six miles west
of Kingston. A round of golf costs US $53; rentals are available. Facilities
include a snack bar, carts and a pro shop.
CONSTANT SPRING
876-924-1610
This downtown course dates back to 1920, when it was designed by Scotsman
Stanley Thompson, mentor of Robert Trent Jones. The short course is a
par 70, and a round costs US $35; rentals are available. There’s a clubhouse,
restaurant, bar and pro shop.
Tennis
Tennis players can hone their skills at several courts, including:
Crowne Plaza (876-925-7676)
Le Meridien Pegasus (876-926-3690)
Hilton New Kingston (876-926-5430).
Beaches
Kingston’s beaches are busy. There have been some crime problems on them
in recent years, so we recommend caution. The Hellshire area, southwest
of the city, has some of the best-known area beaches, including Gunboat
Beach and Fort Clarence.
Lime Cay, south of the peninsula where Port Royal and the airport are
located, can be reached by a boat from Morgan’s Harbor and is very popular
with picnickers. This small island is a favorite weekend getaway with
Kingstonians. The cay has a nice beach and a fun atmosphere, with weekend
cookouts and lots of local fun. Swimming is good. Boat rides out here
can be arranged through Morgan’s Harbour Hotel (876-967-8075).
Scuba Diving
With Kingston’s many cultural offerings, its dive opportunities are sometimes
overlooked. The area has a good variety of sites, though, ranging from
wreck dives to reefs. The Buccaneer Scuba Club, 876- 967-8061, is the
local operator. Sites include:
n Cayman Trader. This wreck is good for all levels of divers. At 33-55
feet, the merchant trade vessel is covered in sea life and nurse sharks
are often seen.
n The Edge. At over 100 feet, this is an advanced dive. It offers excellent
visibility and great photo opportunities.
n Texas Wreck. This US naval ship was sunk here in 1944. Today it’s an
advanced dive (over 100 feet), with lots of black coral.
n Wreck Reef. At 50-80 feet, this site has both natural and man-made attractions.
Look for old cannons near the site.
Eco-Travel
CASTLETON BOTANICAL GARDENS
A3 north of Kingston
Hours: 9-5 daily
Free
These longtime gardens feature many native species, as well as some that
have been introduced. For the price of a tip, you can enjoy a guided tour
of the extensive collection; you’ll also see plenty of birdlife here.
HOPE BOTANICAL GARDENS AND ZOO
Hope Road, next to the University of the West Indies Mona campus
876-927-1257
Open daily
Admission charged
This 50-acre getaway is the largest botanical garden in the West Indies.
The small zoo features Caribbean wildlife. The site was originally the
Hope Estate, founded by Richard Hope, an English army officer, in the
mid-1600s. Featured exhibits include orchid gardens, cacti gardens and
Palm Avenue, which displays sago palms. It’s a pleasant spot to spend
an hour or so.
ROYAL BOTANICAL GARDENS AT HOPE
Hope Road
876-927-1085
Hours: weekdays 10-5, weekends 10-5:30
Admission charged
These gardens were donated by the Hope family. Spanning 50 acres, the
gardens are filled with tropical plants and trees, most labeled.
Cultural Excursions
Kingston is a good home base from which to enjoy day trips, short drives
out of the city that can give you a peek at the rich history of this island.
Interesting Communities
PORT ROYAL
Follow Norman Manley Highway to the airport and continue as the road becomes
Main Road, or take a ferry from downtown Kingston at Princess Street (call
the Kingston JTB office for times).
Once a wild hedonistic pirates’ den (Hedonism II and III weren’t the first
to fill those shoes on this island!), Port Antonio’s rollicking fun came
to a halt on June 7, 1692, when a violent earthquake shook the region
and pushed Port Royal into the sea. The city became the only sunken city
in the Western hemisphere and has been nicknamed the “Pompeii of the Caribbean.”
The top attraction is Fort Charles (876-967-8059, open daily 9-5, admission
charged). Built in 1662, this is the oldest building in Port Royal and
is from the days of British occupation. The remaining portion of the fort
includes a maritime museum and Giddy House, tilted by an earthquake in
1907.
SPANISH TOWN
14 miles west of Kingston on A1
This was once Santiago de la Vega, the island’s capital city under Spanish
rule. Those early explorers came to Jamaica in search of precious metals
and finally gave up the island to the English in 1655. Spanish Town is
an excellent day trip for history buffs. Attractions include Jamaican
People’s Museum of Crafts and Technology (home of many vintage farm implements,
musical instruments and pottery) and St. James Cathedral (St. Jago de
la Vega), the oldest Anglican cathedral beyond England’s borders. Built
in 1523, the historic church is worth a peek and is open daily; admission
is free. The cathedral is filled with memorials to former Jamaican governors;
outside the chapel lie many historic graves dating back to Jamaica’s earliest
days.
FLAT BRIDGE
Located outside Kingston on the Rio Cobre
This bridge was built in the late 1700s by slaves. You’ll see that there’s
no rail on the bridge – every time a rail has been added, the river rises
and washes it out. Legend has it that two slaves were killed and their
bodies added to the mortar; their ghosts are said to haunt the site.
Spectator Sports
Cricket
SABINA PARK
South Camp Road
This park is the island’s test cricket center. For game times, call the
Jamaica Cricket Association, 876-967-0322, or the Kingston Jamaica Tourist
Board office, 876-929-9200.
Horseracing
CAYMANAS PARK RACE TRACK
Gregory Park
876-988-2523
The track is a favorite with locals and visitors who get their kicks from
exciting horse races. Races are held on Wednesdays, Saturdays and on public
holidays, 12:30 to 6 pm.
Shopping
Because it sees fewer tourists than the resort areas, Kingston shopping
is primarily aimed at residents. One area that tourists will find of interest,
however, is Devon House. Surrounding the great house are numerous boutiques
offering everything from Jamaican artwork to jerk sauces. Things Jamaican
is one of the best stores if you’re looking to take back a taste of Jamaica.
This shop sells sauces, cookbooks and even pewterware that reproduces
patterns recovered by archaeologists at Port Royal. A second Things Jamaican
shop is at Norman Manley International Airport.
Pick up some last-minute coffee supplies at The Coffee Mill, which also
sells teas and sauces. Two Hampers and a Mule is another excellent stop
and offers local artwork, cookbooks and more.
Nightlife
Kingston nightlife is legendary, starting with Friday Night Jam. This
open-air street party begins when folks leave work on Friday night and
go out into the street to buy the evening meal, to sit with friends and
to take it easy. Ask for suggestions from your hotel staff before you
head out on the town for the evening.
Discos
There are several well-known discos in Kingston. Top choices include The
Mirage (106 Hope Road, Sovereign Centre, 876-978-8557) and Peppers (31
Upper Waterloo Road, 876-925-2219).
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